9 Singapore chefs share the first memorable dish they made: Milo tangyuan, curry rice and more

A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, and in Singapore’s finest kitchens, even the most lauded chefs started out faltering their way through simple recipes.

Granted, they were children at the time – one chef, at age 10, was making Japanese curry roux from scratch, not out of a box; what an overachiever – but it’s faintly encouraging if, like me, your culinary repertoire consists of cup noodles and boiled water.

We all have to start somewhere, right? Never mind that some of us – and here, I’m looking at the ones with Italian or Indian or Chinese grandmothers – start a little ahead of others.

In fact, it makes me recall the famous little ditty: “Don't worry if your job is small, and your rewards are few. Remember that the mighty oak was once a nut like you.”

KIRK WESTAWAY, JAAN BY KIRK WESTAWAY

Two-Michelin-starred Jaan by Kirk Westaway continues to see a bustling dining room even in a time when people are eating out less, a testament to the consistently solid cooking and warm hospitality. Of course, the stellar views from the 70th floor of Swissotel The Stamford don’t hurt, either.

The latest menu by the Devon-born chef on a mission to translate inspirations from the British cuisine he grew up with into elegant masterpieces focuses on the best summer produce from the UK and around the world, with dishes like king crab, wild turbot, summer peach, and seared Kagoshima Wagyu with a playful garnish of crispy chicken skin.

“In England, everyone’s favourite dish is Sunday roast. I still think it is one of the best dishes you can ever have because you've got your protein, an amazing selection of five or six vegetables, Yorkshire pudding, gravy, spices and sweetness. From the age of five-ish, I used to help my mum make a Sunday roast, together with my sisters and father… I’d be cutting onions, peeling carrots. Those are my fond memories of early cooking.

“The first meal I cooked was similar to a roast dinner. I took the reins and said, ‘Okay, mum, let me take over today. You sit down and I’m going into the kitchen.’ But, you see, mums have spent years organising their kitchens. When I did it, it was a mess. Every pot and pan was used; every plate was a mess; there was food everywhere – just trying to plate four or five dishes of food. And it took double the time to clean all of it! Within the family, people are very honest and critical. ‘The potatoes are a little burnt, Kirk’, or, ‘The gravy is a bit runny today’!

“My mum was a vegetarian, so we didn’t have roast beef, we had vegetables, nuts and fruits. I pretty much grew up vegetarian – it wasn't really until I was a teenager that I started to be rebellious and eat sausages at school and, you know, eat the crap that a teenager would.

“But, my mum is a very good cook. And we were a traditional family – mum was in the kitchen and everyone else was watching TV or whatever. And so, I was always helping her. We used to have a little garden, which was nice. In summer especially, my sisters and I would pick strawberries, cucumbers and rhubarb, and maybe a couple of pears, potatoes, baby carrots and salad. From those fond memories stem this whole modern British direction of lots of nice ingredients and lots of vegetables and fruits running through.”

Jaan by Kirk Westaway is at 2 Stamford Road, Level 70.

LEE BOON SENG, IMBUE

Restaurant Imbue, freshly Michelin-selected just nine months after its opening, is one of those rare gems where you can find really exquisite dishes at an unexpectedly friendly price (lunch menus start at S$58 for two courses and S$68 for three). Chef Lee Boon Seng, who began his culinary career at 17 and went on to represent Singapore in international competitions, serves contemporary European dishes with strong Asian influences in a manner that doesn’t feel laboured but rather, harmonious, natural and grounded in a deep understanding of flavours from both East and West.

“The first thing I ever cooked was tangyuan or sweet glutinous rice balls. I was around seven or eight years old. My grandma made me do it because I was always running around the house or playing by the road, which was dangerous. My first encounter with cooking wasn’t about making something for someone; it was more about keeping me occupied and safe.

“My grandma would gather us to make tangyuan, and I loved playing with the dough. Tangyuan holds significant Chinese cultural meaning, symbolising reunion and harmony. They are commonly enjoyed during festivals such as the Lantern Festival and Winter Solstice. Making tangyuan was a way to embrace our cultural heritage and celebrate special family moments.

“The tangyuan we made weren’t the fancy ones with fillings that you can find on market shelves now. Instead, they were plain but colourful, with flavours added. We had white, green, pink, and even brown ones made with Milo. Since I loved Milo, I would make a big ball of Milo dough for myself. It felt more like playing with Play-Doh than cooking. I would always make a mess, shaping the tangyuan into sizes and forms I liked, which often led to scolding from my grandma. I ended up eating all the oddly shaped tangyuan myself!

“It sparked my creativity, as experimenting with different colours led to new flavours. I found joy in playing with the dough and bonding with family and relatives, which encouraged me to continue exploring cooking.”

Imbue is at 32 Keong Saik Road.

PRIYAM CHATTERJEE, ROIA

At Roia, the restaurant that now occupies the EJH Corner House in the Botanic Gardens, Priyam Chatterjee’s dishes bear testament to how well-versed in French cuisine he is – he also happens to be the first Indian chef to be knighted a chevalier de l’Ordre du Merite Agricole by the French for contributions to gastronomy. But, back in his native Kolkata (psst, his family still has an ancestral castle on the outskirts), the story of the first dish he made and served began, as many good stories do, with a girl.

“I was born into a family of exceptional cooks. I started cooking alongside my mum when I was 13. I was always driven to cook because of my grandmother, mother and aunts. A large (extended) family always meant feasts and family get-togethers on a regular basis. I was always surrounded with food and hosting, serving food even as a toddler. Hospitality runs in our DNA.

“The first dish I ever cooked was actually a Sichuan-style chicken for my then-girlfriend when I was 19 years old, in my first year of college. She was Indian like me and because Kolkata has a very deep and rich cultural history that we have shared with the Chinese community for more than two centuries, Indo-Chinese cuisine originated in Kolkata. Hence, Sichuan-style chicken was one of her favourite dishes.

“I was already well-versed in cooking at that time as I was a college pre-grad student, though not yet a full-fledged chef. I practised making the dish a lot, wanting to make sure I impressed her, and I made my best friend my guinea pig. I guess he loved it as we are still very good friends and we still talk about that chicken dish whenever we see each other!

“And, thankfully, she did enjoy it, and so did her parents.”

Roia is at 1 Cluny Road.

AKANE ENO, ICHIGO ICHIE

Presiding over her minimalist counter at Ichigo Ichie’s new digs at Claymore Connect, Akane Eno's style is a study in artful elegance, measured simplicity and thoughtful expression. Interesting menus such as one designed around tea broaden the mind and whet the appetite, incorporating influences from different cultures in a subtle but effective way. Besides season- and ingredient-driven cooking, she’s also known for her grand donabes, a hearty and comforting way to draw the meal to a close before concluding with desserts featuring surprising and delicious flavour combinations.

“The first dish I ever cooked from scratch was curry rice. I was about 10 years old at the time, and I made it for my parents, brother and grandparents. Whenever we made curry, we usually used pre-made roux from the supermarket. However, I decided to take on the challenge of preparing the curry roux from scratch using flour and curry powder.

“My family was very happy and appreciated my effort, even though I’m not sure how it tasted. Preparing the roux from scratch taught me about the importance of learning and practising the right processes to create the best results. Delicious food is less about how much time or work is put into preparation – what matters more is paying attention to executing the proper steps.

“I was motivated to learn more about cooking, and this has shaped my outlook as a chef – to always strive for improvement.”

Ichigo Ichie is at 442 Orchard Rd, Claymore Connect #01-16/17.

DENIS LUCCHI, BUONA TERRA AND LOCANDA

One-Michelin-starred Buona Terra, with Denis Lucchi at its helm, has just launched a new casual concept serving up pastas, wines and a range of Italian classics from across the regions. The Italian chef who has called Singapore home for many years has heard Buona Terra fans consistently clamouring for its pastas, so they’re getting what they want: A homey setting in which to dig into their favourite dishes.

Named Locanda, it’s a cosy trattoria concept in a shophouse in the heart of Little India. A varied menu offers starters like gnocco fritto with cold cuts; veal with tonnato sauce and caper berries; and stewed beef tripe. On the pasta menu are toothsome options like pappardelle ragu Genovese with mixed mushrooms; tagliolini with fresh tomato, crab and lemon; and malloreddus with red wine octopus ragu and capers. Mains good for sharing include Secreto Iberico pork, Hanging Tender and Turbot Fillet.

“Growing up, my grandma, who was the cook in our family, would spend all Sunday morning making lunch for us. It was the only day we sat down together to eat. Sundays are really important in Italy as it is a day of rest, and my parents would get to spend time at home with us. Our Sunday lunches were long – we would talk and catch up as a family over a meal that my grandma cooked.

“Often, I watched my grandma put together a feast on Sundays and when I was about 12 years old, I decided to help her out by cooking a simple dish to add to the spread.

“What we would usually have on the table included a large poultry dish like a whole roasted chicken or stuffed turkey to share, and, of course, pasta. We typically have bread with meals in Italy, but the bakeries in my hometown close on Sundays, so we would have polenta instead. I thought scrambled eggs would go well with polenta. I’d also seen my grandma cook scrambled eggs many times.

“Through memory, I tried to follow her recipe, refusing any help, even from her. But she still stood beside me, trying her best to guide me by nodding with assurance with every step. Thankfully, there were no big disasters, and my scrambled egg dish turned out fine – it was slightly overcooked, but there were no complaints from my family.

“My grandma’s quiet encouragement gave me the confidence I needed that very day. When I was older and decided to pursue a culinary career, I would often fall back on this memory to motivate me when times got tough, knowing that I could weather through challenging periods.”

Locanda is at 109 Rowell Road.

TORAIK “TC” CHUA, RESTAURANT ZEN

Toraik Chua, Executive Chef at Restaurant Zen alongside Martin Ofner, has been with the three-Michelin-starred restaurant since it opened in 2018. While very accomplished in the kitchen, he’s equally adept at telling tall tales with a straight face. Trained in law, Chua started his culinary journey at Le Cordon Bleu and worked at Noma in Copenhagen before moving to Stockholm and training at Zen’s mothership, Restaurant Frantzen.

Zen’s latest summer menu features the best of the season’s produce including a Crudo of aged hamachi with chilled Amalfi lemon dashi; chawanmushi with yellow split peas, vin jaune foam, marjoram, bacon oil and caviar; grilled Japanese flounder with razor clams and Spanish teardrop peas; and Scottish scallop with chrysanthemum flower tempura.

“When I was a kid, I often played around with food, like making my own version of garlic bread using sliced bread and garlic, or even mashed potato that wasn’t edible – I was 11 back then!

“The first dish I cooked at home after going to culinary school was shark meat soup for my dad's lunch. My mum had gotten a fillet of shark from the wet market and was busy picking my sister up from school, so as the chef in the family, I stepped in to cook. My take on it involved some technical aspects: I added star anise to enhance the broth, along with ginger and white pepper. The shark meat slices were coated in cornstarch to achieve a silky mouthfeel. I am glad to say it went well for a novice.

“I do try to cook for our family reunions from time to time, because my family appreciates the dishes and the effort that goes into them. While this experience wasn't the singular moment that sparked my culinary aspirations, it was indeed a step in my journey as a chef.”

MARTIN OFNER, RESTAURANT ZEN

Martin Ofner, Executive Chef at Restaurant Zen alongside Toraik Chua, has settled into his role after moving to Singapore a few months ago, resigning himself to the humidity without losing his dry sense of humour. The Austrian-born chef’s previous stints include Restaurant Geranium in Denmark and De Librije in the Netherlands, followed by four years with the Frantzen Group, including some time spent in Shanghai.

“The first memory that comes to mind is competing in a young chef competition back in Austria when I was around 15.

“Being a fan of poached white poultry and haute cuisine, I prepared a poached chicken galantine with ramson and stuffed baby bell peppers. Looking back at it now, the bell peppers weren't exactly the epitome of sophistication, but still delicious and honest. I placed second, but the real success that day was that the experience ignited a drive within me.

“So, after participating in a few more competitions, I became obsessed with fine dining, Michelin stars and all that jazz. I also then realised that true culinary artistry extended beyond Austria's borders, inspiring me to move north. So, after a few years, halfway across Europe, I met Bjorn (Frantzen). The rest is history.”

Zen is at 41 Bukit Pasoh Road.

PETER ROLLINSON, FLUTES

Flutes has relocated from the National Museum to new digs at Midtown House, also known as the former Beach Road Police Station. The restaurant retains its elegant, colonial-inspired decor as a nod to the building’s history; and also retains Australian-born executive chef Peter Rollinson, who has helmed the restaurant for the last decade and counting. His seasonal menus reflect his continued dedication to cooking sustainably and sourcing ethically.

“The first serious dish I cooked was a whole baked bream, wrapped in aluminium foil, with herbs, lemon and butter. I cooked this for my parents in my early teens.

“Not only was it a success looking back on it in terms of taste and technique, I happened to have caught the fish earlier in the day where we had been holidaying at the time.

“The importance of having that connection to and understanding of the source of this ingredient was something that was embedded in my ethos even in the early days of messing about in the kitchen, wondering what it would be like to become a chef.”

Flutes is at 120 Beach Road #01-02.

HAFIZZUL HASHIM, RESTAURANT FIZ

Kuala Lumpur-born Hafizzul Hashim dedicates himself to honouring the tradition, culture and ingredients of his roots at Restaurant Fiz, which just received a Michelin Green Star for sustainable practices. The latest menu includes vegetables foraged by indigenous orang asli in Malaysia and a forgotten kuih revived as a dessert served with ice cream. His first foray into cooking on his own, at a tender age, was a labour of love for his mother.

“When my first sister was born, I took a trip to the market with a list my mother had provided, so that I could make her a sambal with quail. During her ‘pantang’ (confinement) stage, she wanted protein. I was about six or seven. My dad was away for a few days; he was in the navy. So, I went to the market on my own, and cooked the dish on my own. It turned out well; my mother liked it.”

Restaurant Fiz is at 21 Tanjong Pagar Road #01-01.