Manpuku Sando is a new sandwich shop at Cuppage Plaza selling sandos with red bean paste, beef and more

Opened in November 2023, Manpuku Sando is a compact sandwich shop located in the basement of Cuppage Plaza. The cutesy Japanese vibes of this pink-themed joint stands out amid the worn-out, dingy ambience of the mall, where time seems to have paused.

Manpuku, which means “to be happy with a full stomach” in Japanese, offers seven types of sandos (Japanese-style sandwiches) that are served with their enticing cross-sections on display.

No kawaii fruit-and-cream sarnies here, but they include savoury fillings like beef, pork and smoked salmon, as well as a sweet red bean paste and whipped cream option. Prices range from S$14.80 to S$24.80.

MADE BY A JAPANESE SANDO ARTISAN

Donning a perky beret and striped top, Hokkaido-born Ayumi Sawaya, 34, is the resident sandwich artisan at Manpuku Sando – and definitely looks the part. Before she started slinging sandos, Sawaya managed the depachika (food hall) at Japan’s oldest department store chain Mitsukoshi’s Nihonbashi outlet in Tokyo.

“I rotated among the different food sections, like Japanese sweets and Western cakes. I also helped to assemble kaisen don (seafood rice bowls),” she told 8days.sg.

What about Insta-friendly sandos? “We had a sando section, but the sandwiches were much thinner. These sandos called moedan (thick sarnies often artfully filled with fruit, cream and neatly cut to show their colourful cross-sections) only started becoming popular after I left,” said the self-taught sando chef.

HER SECOND ATTEMPT AT SELLING SANDOS

In 2019, Sawaya relocated to Singapore after accepting a communications manager role at the now-closed Japanese restaurant-bar, Yakan Hikou, in Concorde Shopping Mall. The chirpy millennial said that her favourite thing about working in Singapore is its more relaxed pace in comparison to her home country.

“I feel that people are more relaxed here. In Japan, I always felt like I was caught in the rat race. I plan to stay and work here for as long as possible,” said Sawaya, who currently holds a work visa.

When Yakan Hikou’s business was affected by COVID-related restrictions, Sawaya proposed that the restaurant-bar switch to selling moedan sandwiches instead. The concept ran for about six months, but the pandemic ultimately led to the restaurant’s closure in 2020.

Fast forward to May this year, Sawaya joined izakaya Dosukoi x Donpachi as a customer service manager. Noting that the restaurant’s bar area was unused in the daytime (the izakaya, known for its sashimi and tempura dishes as well as extensive sake selection, opens from 5pm to 3am), she revisited the sando concept.

“In the day, they don’t use this space at all so I thought it’d be a good idea to use it to sell sandos. My boss agreed to let me try it out,” she shared. Sawaya now works full-time at Manpuku Sando, where she makes all the sandwiches while an assistant helps to serve customers.

SANDO SHOP BY DAY, IZAKAYA BY NIGHT

The sandwich shop, which only opens for four hours for lunch, operates out of the izakaya’s 14-seat bar section separated from the main dining area by a sliding door. The cosy joint has a homely ambience with some cute touches, like a pink wall and eclectic movie posters, to liven up the space. Adding to the kawaii vibe is the shop’s logo, which features whimsical illustrations of Hokkaido animals as a nod to Sawaya’s hometown. Customers can sit at the long bar counter to watch their sandos being prepared, or opt for one of the two small tables in the shop.

BUSINESS HAS BEEN “QUIET”

Tucked away in the basement, Manpuku Sando hasn’t quite caught the attention of Cuppage Plaza’s lunchtime crowd compared to more popular and affordable spots like Orchard Yong Tau Fu. Sawaya confessed that business has been “quiet”, but she remains hopeful: “Our izakaya customers have been supportive and we hope business will improve soon.” Customers include both Japanese and local patrons, with weekends seeing a slightly livelier influx. Looking ahead, she plans to introduce fruit sandos to her menu.

TWO TYPES OF BREAD USED

The sandos here are made from two types of bread: Shokupan (Japanese milk bread) and multigrain. Both are sourced from a local bakery supplier and are lightly toasted before assembly. The milk bread is fluffy and has a mildly sweet fragrance, though not as cottony and wispy compared to Japanese shokupan specialists like Paaru. Studded with chopped nuts and grains, the regular multigrain bread is pretty soft and more aromatic than your typical chain bakery loaf.

KARIJUWA PORK GINGER SANDO, S$18.80

Hearty and flavourful, this sando packs a punch with luscious layers of pan-fried pork belly marinated with soya sauce and ginger. Piled between fluffy, toasted shokupan with roasted onion and red capsicum, lettuce, gooey mozzarella and a thick swipe of tartar sauce, this behemoth is sure to satisfy even big eaters. While the flavours are undeniably Japanese (and tasty), we were a little surprised that the crust was left on. Think of it as a more rustic sandwich rather than the typically polished and impeccably presented Japanese sando.

FUWATORO TRUFFLE TAMAGO SANDO, S$14.80

How does the quintessential Japanese egg sando fare here? We like how larger chunks of hard-boiled egg are folded into the smoother, creamy mashed egg mayo mixture for textural contrast. While the truffle oil-infused filling gives it a more luxe spin, we’re not sure if that alone warrants the rather steep price tag for a simple egg mayo shokupan sando.

A.C.B ANKO CREAM BUTTER SANDO, S$14.80 

While not as pretty as the rest, this modest-looking sando is actually our favourite of the lot. Using rice wine yeast, Ayumi prepares the fermented anko (red bean paste) from scratch – a process that takes over 12 hours. The resulting adzuki bean paste tastes earthy, nutty and faintly alcoholic while retaining a chewy texture. Slathered with sweet fresh whipped cream and salted French butter, this dessert sando offers depth of flavour without being too cloying. A must-try.

CRICHEE SMOKED SALMON CHEESE SANDO, S$19.80

The crunchiest, most refreshing item on the menu elevates the classic smoked salmon and cream cheese combo with a colourful medley of grated carrot, purple cabbage, asparagus, capers and olives, served on multigrain bread. A good option if you’re looking for something lighter but still satisfying.

BEKO BEEF STEAK SANDO, S$24.80

A decadent sandwich featuring thick slabs of seared Aussie tenderloin, roasted red capsicum, mozzarella, fresh lettuce and basil stacked between multigrain bread. Cooked medium rare, the beef is tender and juicy, and well-balanced with house-made sauces including a tangy tartar sauce and sweet caramelised onion relish.

HOUSE-MADE DRINKS, FROM S$6.80

Besides coffee, tea and even beer, the shop also offers fizzy drinks like the Manpuku Fruits Soda (left), featuring a house-made fruit syrup and fresh fruits like strawberry, kiwi and peach, topped with Singha soda. We liked the Craft Ginger Ale (right), an intriguing combination of zingy house-made “masala-spiced” ginger syrup and fizzy soda.

BOTTOM LINE

Though not as flawlessly presented as traditional crustless Japanese sandos, the offerings here boast generous fillings and well-balanced flavours. Our favourites are those that embrace Japanese influences, such as the ginger pork and red bean paste sandwiches. If you can overlook the dinginess of the building it sits in, the compact eatery itself is cosy and boasts quintessentially attentive Japanese service.

Manpuku Sando is at 5 Koek Road, #B1-23, Cuppage Plaza, Singapore 228796. Open daily except Mon, 11am to 3pm (last orders at 2pm). 

This story was originally published in 8Days.