82-year-old hawker still sells desserts at S$1, customers beg her not to retire

It isn’t easy to have longevity in the competitive F&B industry in Singapore, but 82-year-old hawker Yang Feng Ying (transliterated from Chinese) is doing just fine at Commonwealth Crescent Market & Food Centre.

She has been operating her dessert stall Xi Le Ting there for around 50 years, serving up simple but comforting bowls of old-school tong shui (a type of dessert in Chinese cuisine). Her husband Wang Ming Long, 84, helps her out.

MOSTLY A ONE-WOMAN SHOW

Yang starts her day at about 4am preparing her four desserts before opening the stall at 10am. When we drop by her stall, we observe that she prefers decisive customers. If you stutter or hesitate when you order, she will toss a disgruntled look in your direction.

It reminds us of a certain infamous nasi ayam goreng seller at Lucky Plaza, so be prepared to recite your order when you approach auntie. After taking our order, Yang scoops the desserts from a vat set in front of her into nostalgic Chinese porcelain soup bowls.

LONG QUEUE DURING LUNCH HOURS

Despite Yang's outwardly grumpy countenance, her dessert stall is very well-loved with long lines of customers. During 8days.sg’s visit, there was a long queue at lunchtime. By around 1pm, earlier than the stall’s closure time of 2pm, its desserts were sold out, disappointing numerous customers who came after that.

WORKING AT AN OLD AGE

Yang is humble about her popularity, stating that her desserts sell out early because she “doesn’t make a lot”. She is impeded by her legs, which are “in pain” due to her age and did not improve even after repeated trips to the doctor.

As for why she is still working at 82, Yang shares: “It’s boring at home.” She had considered retirement, but her customers begged her not to “as they won’t be able to enjoy her desserts anymore”.

S$1 DESSERTS

We like the cheng tng here, which is especially refreshing in this hot weather. For just S$1, you get a bowl loaded with goodies like dried longan, white fungus, large sago pearls and dried persimmon. The bubur terigu (white wheat porridge) here is just as good, and very filling.

According to Yang, her comforting green bean soup with coconut milk and sago pearls is the bestseller, as is the red bean soup, a mildly sweet dessert with small red beans cooked down with pandan-infused water.

“YOU CAN ASK FOR LESS SWEET AND LESS SYRUP”

Yang's signboard also has this cute line for health-conscious customers: ‘You can ask for less sweet and less syrup’. But after trying everything on the menu, we find that her homely desserts have just the right amount of sweetness and don’t need any adjustment.

It is hard to come by such traditional desserts for just a dollar these days, so consider savouring a simple bowl of sweet treats here, at least before Yang decides to retire. 

Xi Le Ting is at 31 Commonwealth Crescent, #02-70, Commonwealth Crescent Market & Food Centre, Singapore 149644. Open Thurs-Sun 10am to 2pm or till sold out.

This story was originally published in 8Days.