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Fendi caps couture with futurism-tinged ode to Lagerfeld at Paris Fashion Week

The Fendi spring/summer 2024 haute couture collection was a study of contrast.

Fendi caps couture with futurism-tinged ode to Lagerfeld at Paris Fashion Week

Fendi's spring/summer 2024 haute couture collection. (Photo: Thibault Camus/AP)

As Paris Couture Week drew to a close, Fendi offered a mesmerizing blend of minimalist futurism and homage to the legendary Karl Lagerfeld.

Celebrities like Zendaya and Reese Witherspoon were on hand to witness artistic director Kim Jones deliver a memorable futurist collection — with frothing, organic fringing — that not only revered the past but also embraced a forward-thinking ethos.

From left: Ava Phillippe, Reese Witherspoon, Michael Burke, Zendaya and Law Roach at the Fendi haute couture spring/summer 2024 collection. (Photo: Thibault Camus/AP)
KIM JONES’ FUTURIST ODE

Eschewing the exuberant exotics of Lagerfeld’s era with his exotic furs and feathers, Jones focused on the human form, ensuring that each garment accentuated rather than overshadowed the wearer.

“I was thinking about Karl Lagerfeld’s futurism,” Jones said, setting the tone for a collection where lightness, structure, and emotion intertwined seamlessly.

Fendi's spring/summer 2024 haute couture collection. (Photo: Thibault Camus/AP)
Fendi's spring/summer 2024 haute couture collection. (Photo: Thibault Camus/AP)

It began with a new box-like silhouette, with precise geometric patterns in silk gazars. Gowns with severe, minimalist hemlines were adorned with intricate beading, a sophisticated evolution from the brand’s fur-heavy past. A feather-like, all-over fringe appeared as a new kind of pelt.

Jones’s vision of Fendi’s future, he seemed to be saying, is rooted in delicate humanism — not animal pelts. The craftsmanship of Fendi's ateliers shone through in every piece, showcasing a mastery of embroidery, tailoring, and fabric manipulation.

Fendi's spring/summer 2024 haute couture collection. (Photo: Thibault Camus/AP)

The integration of crystal beading in tulle sleeves that seamlessly merged in a trompe l'oeil with clutch bags. It was the collection's zenith — and a feat of fashion genius.

Each creation in the collection spoke of a refined elegance, embodying a sense of lightness and fluidity. The garments, while echoing the grandeur of couture, were decidedly contemporary in their execution. Jones was respecting the Rome-based house's codes while boldly stepping into a less opulent, more refined future.

Source: AP/bt

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