The skincare guru who introduced the '10-step Korean skincare routine' to the world busts K-beauty myths

If you subscribe to the 10-step Korean skincare routine and copped a flawless mien as a result then you have Charlotte Cho to thank.

Over a decade ago, when Cho co-founded Soko Glam – kind of like the online version of Olive Young in North America – she shared with American beauty editors that her friends in her motherland Seoul would have 10 beauty items on their vanity.

The press swiftly interpreted that to be the 10-step Korean routine and years later, many still identify with that as the holy grail.

Besides helming one of the biggest purveyors of K-beauty in the US, the go-getting 38-year-old tapped into her "jeong" (the Korean word for a feeling of loyalty and strong connection to people and place) of her East-meets-West background to develop a K-beauty-inspired brand of her own.

In Cho’s own words, Then I Met You (TIMY) is rooted in “Korean ritualistic beliefs but with a Western kick”.

Cho built TIMY organically, mostly by word of mouth and intentionally kept the brand’s progression slow but steady. “It’s been five years and I only have nine products,” Cho shared introspectively.

The Living Cleansing Balm that “makes you look forward to taking off your makeup” remains the bestseller. The Renewing Rich Beauty cream picked up a Popsugar beauty award while the Rose Resurfacing Facial Mask is an Elle Editor’s Choice favourite.

Sephora saw TIMY’s potential from the get-go and after five long years of courtship, shoppers will finally be able to shop the brand at Sephora’s Asian stores in Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia and Thailand from April.

CNA Lifestyle caught up with Cho who was in Singapore for Sephora’s Open House for answers surrounding the common myths of K-beauty.

HOW THE 10-STEP KOREAN SKINCARE ROUTINE CAME ABOUT

“There’s a misconception with the Korean 10-step routine,” said Cho. “It’s really not meant to be every morning and every night. It’s more about explaining what the potential steps are.”

So how did the 10-step Korean skincare routine come about then?

“When Soko Glam first started and I was talking to all the American beauty editors. I told them about how my friends in Korea would have 10 products on their vanity and so the editors went, ‘Oh, so like 10 steps?’ and that quickly became viral,” recalled Cho with a chuckle. 

“I think the virality came from the fact that it was so jarring that anyone would do 10 steps. But I'm glad it made that effect because it got the message across. And it helped educate people. Because if you're a person who did not do any skincare, and then suddenly you are cleansing properly and hydrating properly, you're going to see results.”

CHO'S OWN SKINCARE ROUTINE

A busy business owner and mother of two, Cho often finds herself strapped for time. The tedious 10-step would be too much of an ask. She divulged that her skincare routine is a lot simpler, but no less effective of course.

Her five-step routine consists of the following:   

1. Double cleanse. “I saw the biggest change in my skincare routine through double cleansing. I used to have a lot of acne, persistent hormonal acne and double cleansing helped clear it up.”

2. Essence. “The essence really improved the hydration levels of my skin. It’s got a light silky texture that is very layer-able like a sheet mask but without the sheet mask.”

3. Chemical exfoliant. “Using a chemical exfoliant regularly to get rid of dead skin cells and help my skin look more evenly toned.”

4. Moisturise. “I use a moisturiser to lock in all the hydration.”

5. Sunscreen. “I wear sunscreen during the day... I like the idea of putting something on the skin that looks a little bit glowy, but it’s not really makeup."  

WHAT IS REALLY AT THE HEART OF K-BEAUTY?

“It’s about taking care of your skin first, before covering it up with makeup. That’s the heart of Korean beauty,” Cho broke it down.

“The goal is skin-first, to be able to go out without any makeup, that’s something to celebrate. I love this skin-first philosophy that Koreans have ingrained in their culture. I’m not saying don’t wear make-up but your make-up will look better if your skin is in a great healthy shape. And that’s what I wanted to share with everything that I do.”

According to Cho, the Korean way to take care of your skin begins with finding the right skincare for your skin type, staying out of direct sunlight, wearing sunscreen, regular exfoliation and even going to a bathhouse (or jjimjilbang) that she likened to a gym for your skin.

WHAT IS THE "RIGHT" SKINCARE?

Cho’s advice is plain and simple. “I think you have to be educated. You have to know how to read the label on the back and know what is suitable for your skin type.”

She went on to add: “Skincare is trial and error because every person has different skin types. Some people might think that I don't need to put a moisturiser on because I'm already oily. But actually, you may be severely dehydrated because you just aren't putting the right humectants in your routine that are going to penetrate into your skin.”

Finding the correct skincare that works for your skin is paramount, regardless of gender.

“The difference between male and female skin is just miniscule,” Cho said matter-of-factly. “It's just they have larger hair follicles because they have facial hair. And they also might have a little bit more larger pores than women. But in general skin is skin.”

WHY K-BEAUTY IS PARTICULARLY GOOD FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

“Koreans have a lot of pollution issues such as yellow dust phenomenon that causes a lot of irritation. So even if you’re not born with sensitive skin, it’s environmental and the Korean cosmetic companies identify and understand that it is an issue for the population and they help address it in their skincare,” Cho shared.

Whether you identify with having sensitive skin or are plagued by environmental stressors that can lead to sensitivity, targeted skincare designed to alleviate this skincare woe can’t hurt.

“I noticed at Soko Glam that we have people from different places coming to try Korean beauty for the first time and they’re amazed at the results. They’re like, 'I tried everything, expensive products, cheap products, and it’s only Korean beauty that is really good for my skin'.”

IS KOREAN SKINCARE NECESSARILY BETTER?

“It really is a case of sophistication of Korean brands in general,” said Cho in response to whether Korean brands reigns over the Western counterparts.

“The big difference is the gentler Korean approach that is about prevention versus the West’s desire to turn back the hands of time which you have to attack your skin for. Korean skincare is about persistence and consistency that deliver sustainable results over time.”

But where does that leave time-strapped individuals? Cho agreed that Korean skincare can sometimes be too gentle and that’s where K-beauty inspired innovations like TIMY comes in.

“TIMY has both the American and Korean side of me. I love hydration but I also want a little bit of kick in my skincare routine. For example, The Giving Essence is formulated with 5 per cent niacinamide because I want it to really have that skin brightening effect. It’s not going be bad for your skin, it’s just the right amount to give it more than just hydration.”

WHAT’S HOT IN K-BEAUTY RIGHT NOW

“Beauty is very cyclical, what’s old is new again with skincare. Snail mucin is way back in again and it’s back through TikTok, among the Gen Z communities,” pointed out Cho.

Korean sunscreens have a large following because of their very lightweight textures, she also said. “I wish I could use those filters in the US, but you can’t because they’re not approved which is why American sunscreens are thick and pasty.”

Toner pads are also back for those who want to multi-mask. “People don’t necessarily want to put on an entire sheet mask, they’re more about targeting areas, depending on what they need.”

Cho also highlighted that Korean beauty has taken a more minimal approach, encouraging fusion of steps. “The Mixsoon Bean Essence is also very viral right now. It hydrates but also exfoliates if you rub it vigorously enough that helps slough off dead skin cells that makes your skin very glassy.”

Then I Met You will be available at Sephora in Singapore from Apr 18.