Not all marks left by pimples are scars – how to tell the difference and why they should be treated differently

The worst part about suffering from acne, for many people, is the aftermath – having to deal with the scars and marks left behind by a breakout. Anyone who’s ever had a pimple will know that these marks take a long time to heal and fade – and some persistent ones do not budge at all, no matter what treatment you try on them.

Prevention is better than cure, of course – the bottom line is that acne should be targeted at its root cause. But let’s face it – the reality is that breakouts sometimes happen despite our best efforts to avoid them. So what can one do to lighten the appearance of these marks?

Skincare products are likely your next best bet, even if they may not be able to completely remove them. But before we can even get down to that, consultant dermatologist at Assurance Skin, Dr Wong Soon Tee, told CNA Lifestyle that it is important to first understand what acne scars are. Here, he shares how to identify them and if skincare products help at all in targeting them.

WHAT EXACTLY IS CONSIDERED AN ACNE SCAR?

For most people, the term acne scar probably means any kind of mark left on the skin after a pimple goes away – this is a common misconception.

If you’ve noticed, there are mainly two types of marks left on skin after acne goes away – one that is flat, appearing as a spot of discolouration, while the other kind disrupts the surface of your skin and appears either as an indented pit or raised mark.

“Dermatologists refer to the former as acne marks or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. These are not scars, like how the general public understands it,” said Dr Wong. The latter, however, are known as acne scars and present a more serious skin condition. 

Both are caused by the inflammatory process that happens when acne forms on skin. Acne marks typically will fade away with the passing of time and care, but scars, which happen when irregularities occur during the skin-healing process, are permanent.

CAN SKINCARE DIMINISH ACNE MARKS AND SCARS?

When it comes to acne scars, the short answer is no, confirmed Dr Wong. They are permanent, and even treatments like lasers may not completely remove them, even if they can help improve their appearance. There are many different types of acne scars, too. “They are different in forms and unique in their own way. They respond differently to treatment,” he added, stressing that it’s best to consult a dermatologist on resolving acne scar issues.

Acne marks, however, do fade over time and with appropriate care. “Dermatologists treat acne marks with topical medicine. Sometimes, we use cosmeceuticals and there is a wide variety of them. But it is important to know that cosmeceuticals do not have the potency of topical medicine,” pointed out Dr Wong.  

INGREDIENTS THAT WILL TARGET MARKS

Over-the-counter skincare can help lighten acne marks to a certain extent and speed up the time taken for them to fade away, even if they may not work as effectively or quickly as doctor-prescribed products.

If you’d like to incorporate such products in your skincare routine, look out for these ingredients in the form of a serum or moisturiser. 

According to Dr Wong, azelaic acid is one ingredient that can help in this respect, as it reduces the effects of tyrosinase – an enzyme that causes hyperpigmentation – and also gently boosts skin cell turnover. At the same time, it alleviates inflammation, which may help those who are still dealing with active acne. 

Vitamin C is another skincare ingredient that has a similar effect but may not be as superior as azelaic acid when it comes to tackling acne marks. Still, it has skin-brightening and antioxidant effects that can benefit skin in other ways – that is, if it is suitable for your skin type and condition.

Retinol, which is often said to be able to help diminish acne marks, will help boost cell turnover, but should be used with care, as those with sensitive skin may not be able tolerate high concentrations of the ingredient well.

"Exfoliating removes dead skin cells from the surface of your skin and can help lighten superficial marks,” added Dr Wong.

As mentioned above, azelaic acid is a gentle exfoliant, besides providing its other benefits. You can also look out for other gentle chemical exfoliants, such as lactic acid or salicylic acid, which will do the job without causing skin irritation like a physical or granular exfoliator is likely to do.

Don’t overdo the exfoliation, of course, as there is such a thing as too much of a good thing. Also keep in mind that it is best to be cautious and consult a dermatologist before using these, if you have active acne or sensitive skin.

OTHER THINGS YOU CAN DO

Needless to say, it’s advisable to keep to a sensible skincare routine while incorporating these products into your regimen. This means daily cleansing that is thorough yet isn’t harsh on your skin, as well as keeping skin hydrated by using a moisturiser that’s suitable for your skin type. To combat an ongoing or future breakout, an anti-inflammatory spot treatment can help.

There’s no need to avoid using makeup, according to Dr Wong. Non-comedogenic makeup is specifically formulated with ingredients that won’t clog pores, which makes it ideal for acne-prone skin or those going through a breakout.

If you have difficulty deciphering the ingredients in makeup, stay on the safe side by opting for brands or formulas that are known to be suitable for skin with acne, such as mineral makeup, which is hypoallergenic.