Physical vs chemical skin exfoliation: Which is better for your skin type?

Even though our skin has its own natural exfoliation process to get rid of dead skin cells, regular exfoliation is often recommended by facialists.

But is it really necessary?

EXFOLIATION 101

“Although our skin naturally exfoliates itself through a 28-day process called desquamation, this process can sometimes be incomplete or slow down as we age,” explained Dr Lee Hwee Chyen, medical director and consultant dermatologist, Epi Dermatology & Laser Specialist Clinic.

And when this happens, we need to help our skin along, which is where regular exfoliating comes in.

It’s a key step in any skincare routine as it can prevent clogged pores and achieve a brighter and smoother complexion, said Dr Pamela Chong, aesthetic doctor, Epion Clinic.

But that’s not all. The effects of regular exfoliation are multifold and can help boost collagen production for radiant, youthful and supple skin, added Dr Lee.

WHAT IS PHYSICAL EXFOLIATION?

What is physical exfoliation? It typically involves the use of face scrubs (sugar or salt crystals, or micro-beads) or beauty tools (cleansing brushes and silicone devices) to manually remove the dead skin cells.

The biggest advantage is its ability to provide instant results, leaving the skin feeling smoother and looking brighter after just one session.

In addition, the physical act of cleansing the face with a scrub or tool can also stimulate micro-circulation, which can improve skin radiance and regeneration, said Dr Chong.

However, the downside is that it can lead to over-exfoliation if you’re too enthusiastic. Not only can this lead to redness, it can also “create micro-tears in the skin barrier, resulting in increased vulnerability of the skin to irritation, sensitivity and even infection”, said Dr Lee.

CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION EXPLAINED

On the other end of the spectrum is chemical exfoliation, which uses acids and enzymes to dissolve the dead skin cells and promote cell turnover. Common ingredients include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic and lactic acid, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid and enzymes derived from fruits like papaya and pineapple.

These actives, added Dr Chong, address different skin concerns and also penetrate deeper into the skin to produce better results.

Chemical exfoliants are also typically milder and better tolerated than physical exfoliants, posing a lower risk of irritation as they are less abrasive, shared Dr Lee.

EXFOLIATION AND YOUR SKIN TYPE

1. Acne-prone/oily skin

A common misconception is that you shouldn’t exfoliate. However, both doctors encourage exfoliation even with breakouts, and it can be either physical or chemical exfoliation.

“Exfoliation can help reduce the appearance of acne and acne scars. It effectively removes dead skin cells, prevents clogged pores, fades blemishes and improves overall skin tone, thus reducing breakouts,” explained Dr Lee.

Oily skin can also benefit from using physical exfoliants, like facial brushes, two to three times a week to help remove the extra layer of build-up and prevent acne, added Dr Lee.

However, with active acne, scrubbing the skin can irritate existing breakouts and potentially spread the acne bacteria further, causing more breakouts, cautioned Dr Chong. Instead, use a chemical exfoliant, like BHAs, daily. “It’s anti-inflammatory, oil-soluble and can facilitate deep cleansing of the pores.”

2. Normal/combination skin

Similar with acne-prone and oily skins, normal or combination skin types can opt for either physical or chemical exfoliation.

3. Dry/sensitive skin

If skin is dry, sensitive or even eczema-prone, try chemical exfoliants. “They tend to be gentler and less likely to cause irritation compared to physical exfoliants, which can be harsher on delicate skin,” shared Dr Lee.  

Start exfoliating once a week, then gradually increase frequency to twice a week. And “always monitor your skin’s reaction and discontinue if any adverse effects occur,” she emphasised.

4. Dehydrated skin

Dehydrated skin lacks moisture and can weaken the skin barrier. “This results in a build-up of dead skin, which leave skin dull and flaky, and cause premature ageing,” said Dr Chong.

Regular exfoliation will help remove the dead skin cells and allow your skincare to penetrate deeper into the skin, working optimally to replenish the lost moisture.

Consider using “low concentrations of AHAs or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), which boost hydration while providing antioxidant protection”, shared Dr Chong.

DOS AND DON’TS FOR SMOOTH, SOFT SKIN

1. Exercise caution when using cleansing devices. While they provide a deeper cleanse, overuse can result in over-exfoliation. And these should not be used if you have skin conditions such as rosacea or eczema as they can “potentially exacerbate these conditions”, said Dr Chong.

It’s better to massage in circular motions using gentle pressure. Pay attention to oilier areas like the T-zone, and never concentrate on one area for too long.

2. Exfoliate your skin at night, allowing it time to recover while you sleep. And don’t forget to apply sunscreen in the morning, said Dr Lee. This is important as some chemical exfoliants can increase skin sensitivity to sunlight, added Dr Chong.

3. Avoid combining both exfoliation methods at a go. This can cause over-exfoliation and damage the skin’s barrier, increasing sensitivity and triggering inflammation.

4. Never exfoliate skin that’s irritated (includes eczema flare-ups), sunburnt or have open wounds. This can aggravate the existing issues, which can hinder healing and even cause scarring, said Dr Chong.

5. Check with your doctor on an appropriate exfoliation routine if you’re taking oral retinoid medications like Accutane or Oratane. These can make the skin more sensitive and prone to dryness, and exfoliating wrongly can worsen the side effects or increase skin’s sun sensitivity, said Dr Chong. Likewise, avoid exfoliating after in-clinic treatments like peels and lasers.

6. If you experience pain, burning or swelling during or after exfoliating, it could be signs of over-exfoliation, and you should stop exfoliating immediately, said Dr Lee. Instead, “allow your skin to recover, which typically requires two to three weeks, depending on severity”.

Ultimately, as “a general rule, if your skin shows visible redness or inflammation, postpone exfoliation until it has fully healed”, advised Dr Lee.

5 EXFOLIANTS TO CONSIDER IN YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE

1. Beauty of Joseon Apricot Blossom Peeling Gel, S$15.55

Infused with plum blossom water and plant derived cellulose, this gentle facial scrub not only refines the skin texture but also helps remove excess sebum for a clearer complexion.

Available at www.watsons.com.sg

2. Bio-essence Bio-Water 2% Glycolic Niacinamide Toning Water, S$29.90

A lightweight toner that contains glycolic acid and niacinamide (vitamin B3). Together, they work to remove dead skin cells, reduce clogged pores and strengthen the skin.

Available at www.watsons.com.sg.

3. Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Daily Re-Texturizing Triple Acid Peel, S$88

A lightweight serum that combines three acids – AHA (glycolic and lactic), BHA (salicylic) and PHA (gluconolactone), together with copper gluconate, to reduce the appearance of pores, so skin is glow-y and smooth.

Available at www.kiehls.com.sg

4. Chanel Le Masque Camellia Exfoliating Mask, S$105

Doubling up as a mask and scrub, it’s enriched with camellia ceramides and white clay to purify the skin along with camellia husks and jojoba beads to refine the skin texture. Skin feels refreshed, soft and smooth.

Available at Chanel Fragrance & Beauty boutiques, counters and www.chanel.com/sg/

5. Lancome Clarifique Double Treatment Essence, from S$170

This improved formula contains a higher concentration of beech bud extract and four acids – phytic, lactic, glycolic and salicylic, to refine skin texture for a smooth and radiant complexion.