Lip balm, oil, serum or mask: What do you really need to treat dry, chapped lips?

Let’s face it: We’ve all suffered from dry, chapped lips before. And while there is a plethora of lip products that promise to give lips a healthy appearance, it can get confusing as to which product – balm, oil, serum or mask, would work best. And how do we achieve an effective lip care routine?

WHAT MAKES THE SKIN ON THE LIPS DIFFERENT? 

“The skin on the lips can be up to five times thinner than the skin on our face, which gives the lips its pink colour due to the more obvious blood flow near the surface,” shared Dr Tan Ying Zhou, medical director of Mizu Aesthetic Clinic.

In addition, it lacks the same depth of layers as the skin on the rest of our face, making it “more susceptible to dryness, chapping and sensitivity”, added Dr Angeline Yong, consultant dermatologist and medical director of Angeline Yong Dermatology.

But that’s not all. The skin is also missing sweat glands and hair follicles, and has a reduced melanin content. All these factors further contribute to our lips’ vulnerability. Sweat glands help regulate moisture levels and its absence result in lips getting dry easily while less melanin makes our lips more prone to sun damage and increases the risk of developing sunburn and/or lip discoloration, explained Dr Yong.

And just like the rest of our body, the skin on the lips ages the same way, just faster and sooner, said Dr Tan. “As we age, the skin structure (collagen), muscles and fat around the lips diminish, causing the lips to become thinner and have more lines.”

Thus, caring for our lips is important to ensure their optimal health.

SERUM VS BALM VS OIL: WHEN TO USE WHAT

Lip balm: With a thicker, waxy consistency and containing ingredients like shea butter, beeswax or plant oils, this helps replenish moisture, seal in hydration and prevent further moisture loss.

Lip serum: With lightweight formulations enriched with active ingredients such as peptides, hyaluronic acid and/or antioxidants, this is often designed to provide specific benefits beyond basic hydration, including plumping the lips, smoothing out fine lines and improving lip texture.

Lip mask: Used as an intensive treatment to nourish and hydrate the lips, it is either applied for a specific period of time or left to work overnight. Ideal for providing an extra boost of hydration and rejuvenation to dry lips. 

Lip oil: Infused with plant oils and/or botanical extracts, it can be used as a lip balm alternative, providing hydration, nourishment and giving lips a subtle shine. “Since the lips do not have any sebaceous glands, lip oils help replenish the moisture by acting as a barrier while simultaneously providing hydration for the lips,” said Dr Tan.

If you’re wondering if a lip gloss is just as effective, think again.

“While lip glosses can provide a temporary glossy finish and enhance the appearance of the lips, they’re not designed to provide the same level of hydration, protection and treatment as lip balms or lip oils,” explained Dr Yong.

Dr Tan agreed and added that a lip balm or lip oil is usually formulated with healing or soothing ingredients as its intended purpose is to provide benefits to people who suffer from dryness or cracked lips.

In short, keep those lip glosses for cosmetic purposes instead.

When looking for ingredients in your lip care products, Dr Yong advised choosing ones that provide moisture, nourishment and protection.

These include hyaluronic acid to plump and smooth the lips, shea butter to moisturise and nourish with its fatty acids, plant oils like jojoba, coconut, argan and almond to provide hydration, vitamin E to protect against free radical damage and peptides to stimulate collagen production.

And don’t forget SPF protection, added Dr Tan.

A COMPLETE LIP CARE ROUTINE

“Layering lip care products, similar to skincare products, can be beneficial for addressing different lip concerns and enhancing its overall health and appearance,” said Dr Yong.

Step 1: Cleanse

Start by gently cleansing your lips with a soft cloth or gentle lip cleanser to remove residual lip products, dirt or oils.

Step 2: Exfoliate

Banish dry, flaky skin on your lips by exfoliating with a soft toothbrush. Gently scrubbing in small circular motions will help remove the dead skin cells and leave lips smooth. Do this once a week or every few days, depending on the condition of your lips.

Step 3: Lip serum

If you’re using a lip serum, apply this as the first layer in your lip care routine after cleansing and/or exfoliating.

Step 4: Lip balm

Apply a layer of lip balm to help seal in moisture, provide hydration and protect the lips from external factors. And don’t forget to re-apply throughout the day as needed.

Step 5: Lip mask

For extra nourishment, slather on a layer of lip mask. This can be done occasionally or nightly, especially if you’re sleeping in an air-conditioned room.

Step 6: Lip oil

This works as additional layer of lightweight hydration, and can also be an alternative to a lip balm.

More importantly, it’s essential that the products are used in this order to be effective. For instance, lip masks or serums should not be applied after a lip balm or oil as the barrier created by the balm/oil will prevent the ingredients from the former from reaching the skin barrier, explained Dr Tan.

5 LIP CARE PRODUCTS FOR SOFT, SMOOTH LIPS

1. Ultra Violette Sheen Screen SPF50 Lip Balm, S$29

Colour, hydration and SPF protection in one. Lips not only get a soft wash of shine and colour, but are kept moisturised with lip-loving ingredients like lanolin, cocoa and shea butter while being protected against UV damage at the same time. Comes in six shades.

Available at www.sephora.sg 

2. Then I Met You Honey Dew Lip Mask, S$39

With its blend of antioxidant-rich and hydrating ingredients like honeydew, squalane and honey, this multi-purpose lip mask doubles up as a balm or intense night treatment. Plus, the use of lactic acid gently exfoliates the lips to reveal a soft pout. 

Available at www.sephora.sg

3. Clarins Lip Comfort Oil, S$48

Enriched with a combination of three plant-based oils – hazelnut, organic jojoba and a third ranging from raspberry and cranberry to macadamia and sweet briar rose, this cult-fave lip oil instantly soothes and nourishes. Comes in an array of 11 tints that leave lips with a delicate hint of colour too.

Available at www.clarins.com.sg

4. Sulwhasoo Glowing Lip Balm, S$52

Formulated with the core ingredients in Sulwhasoo’s iconic First Care Activating Serum VI along with ginseng seed oil, this hydrating and nourishing lip balm addresses the five signs of lip ageing – dryness, wrinkles, loss of volume, flaking and dullness. The result: Lips are firmer, fuller and smoother. Comes in two colour options.

Available at www.sg.sulwhasoo.com

5. Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Serum Levres, S$82

A dual-phase lip serum, it combines a hyaluronic acid and white camellia water phase with an encapsulated white camellia OFA extract oil phase to leave lips soft, plump and supple. Great for chapped lips and lip makeup prep as lips stay hydrated all day.

Available at www.chanel.com/sg