Levi’s new premium denim line is 100% made in Japan – we went there to find out why

An hour’s drive from Tokyo, at the foothills of the monumental Mount Fuji, stands a two-storey factory building in a suburban part of Kanagawa prefecture. It’s as nondescript as factory buildings come – except for the vivid blue door entrance that offered a hint of what was inside.

I was at SAAB, a manufacturing plant that has been making denim jeans for nearly four decades. Bales of denim material as well as stacks of jeans in various states of finish were everywhere, as Japanese workers quietly went about their business making jeans for client brands not just in Japan but globally.

And it’s here where the latest premium line from Levi’s was being made – the Blue Tab.

JAPAN’S LOVE AFFAIR WITH DENIM

Comprising not just jeans but jackets, dresses and even a “suit”, the wholly Japan-made line was first launched in Feb 1 before being introduced across Southeast Asia on Feb 17. These will set you back anywhere between ¥26,400 to ¥49,500 (US$173 to S$325).

That the American denim company has chosen to introduce its latest premium denim collection in Japan first – and make it here – is fitting.

The country is famous for its textiles and dyeing traditions. People obsess over Japanese denim as much as the Japanese obsess over them, too. The trend of selvedge denim, after all, was revived here.

Levi’s itself has even set up one of their exclusive Haus of Strauss ateliers in Tokyo – one of only four around the world and the only one in Asia.

Their collaboration with SAAB has also been a longstanding one – they’ve previously worked on some Made In Japan special editions as well as the exquisite Vintage Clothing collection.

“They have this expertise that we can’t find elsewhere. They can create some jeans to look like they’ve been worn for 10 years,” shared Levi’s design director Paul O’Neill.

HOW LEVI’S MAKES ITS BLUE TAB

During the short tour, I got to witness firsthand how a pair of these Blue Tab jeans went from raw and rigid to intentionally and comfortably “lived-in” through some painstaking processes.

It started with quality raw denim, predominantly from the famous Kaihara textile mill, which is said to one of the world’s best.

After the clothes are made, transformation continues with a “dry process”, which is a technique of creating the “whiskers” pattern by sanding or hand-shaving the jeans. To better accentuate some designs, other special dry processes such as chlorine wiping and special “destroying” techniques are also used.

For even more unique patterns, there’s lasering. SAAB uses a supposedly zero-pollution machine called Jeanologia that uses thermal energy to create specific motifs on denim fabric.

Thereafter, the jeans are fed into giant-sized washing machines for an environmentally-friendly wash – which includes bio-processes and stone-washing – to create the fading effect.

This “lived-in” look is intentional. What struck me most about this premium collection is that there’s absolutely nothing ostentatiously “look at me” about it and was more quiet luxury, which will no doubt appeal to the “if you know, you know” cohort.

At a cursory glance, these could have passed off as regular denim pants. But upon closer inspection, I noticed a stark difference: The extravagance came in the form of details.

“We have selvedge construction,” O’Neill highlighted. Selvedge refers to the self-finished edges that prevent the fabric from unravelling over time – and it’s a key characteristic of high-quality Japanese denim.

According to O’Neill, this “crafted approach” is what sets the new line apart from its classic Red Tab peers.

He explained the intricacies of construction, which a lot of people might not even notice but is essential to the jeans’ construction.

“There’re subtle details like selvedge on the interior of the pockets. Also, if you look at the arcuate stitch, the two stitches on the back pocket of the Blue Tab, you'll notice it's different from the Red Tab.”

THE STORY BEHIND THE BLUE TAB

So we know what goes into the making of Blue Tab jeans – but what exactly does it mean? It turns out, it’s not technically new.

While many are familiar with the brand’s red-coloured tab, eagle-eyed denimheads will know the literal blue tab has been used before.

“It came up in several different collections; it was always represented as the pinnacle for premium Levi’s pieces. So, when we wanted to focus on this new premium collection, we zoned in on that blue tab,” said O’Neill.

He added: “When we look at the blue (coloured) tab, you have the indigo blue colour against the indigo blue jeans. It's a much more refined, understated way to brand the product.”

Another fun fact that O’Neill shared regarding the Blue Tab was his inspiration for what’s probably one of the more unusual looks in the line, a razor-sharp tailored pants suit.

It had to do with a certain denim-loving musical legend by the name of Bing Crosby.

Story goes, the legendary American singer-actor was once denied entry into a hotel for wearing his casual 501s. Levi’s promptly made him a custom jean tuxedo. Crosby loved it so much he wore the formal suit while promoting his new movie.

“I think about this because I want to take the Blue Tab somewhere that can be more formal, somewhere that could be more elevated and sophisticated, that isn't the streets. I want it to be able to be worn in many other places, and I don't see other brands doing that.”

Looking ahead, Levi’s and O’Neill have their sights on adding more to the collection.

“We have our classics, the 501s, 511s, but now we can introduce a more formal look that could be worn on different occasions. We're building on the foundation we've started, to introduce more beautiful denim pieces.”

CNA Lifestyle was in Japan at the invitation of Levi’s.