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Paris Fashion Week: Loewe's Jonathan Anderson takes inspiration from a giant red tropical flower

Like old school collections used to be, Anderson takes one main theme and develops it until it spawns others creatively within the show like a symphony, all held together with invisible strings.

Paris Fashion Week: Loewe's Jonathan Anderson takes inspiration from a giant red tropical flower

A model wears a creation from Loewe's spring-summer 2023 collection. (Photo: Loewe)

Loewe, the hip heritage brand whose "w" is pronounced "v," is going from strength to strength under the artistic stewardship of Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson.

The set of Loewe's spring-summer 2023 womenswear show. (Photo: Loewe)
Friday's (Sep 30) concept-driven collection – the highlight of the season so far – was a case in point. Like old school collections used to be, Anderson takes one main theme and develops it until it spawns others creatively within the show like a symphony, all held together with invisible strings. A giant bright red tropical flower, identified as an anthurium, was the centerpiece of this minimalist runway – producing thoughtful variations on the flower theme.

It was at times literal, such as the giant white anthurium serving as the front piece on an A-line minidress. At other times it was conceptual: The minimalist shape of a black bustier dress opening the show evoked the purity of the single waxy petal – and its silhouette itself resembled an upside-down flower, like a take on 1940s Dior.

Distortions were everywhere. An ash bustier gown sported an inside peplum to create a surreal curtain-shape in the skirt. The 1940s was also apparent in the babydoll gowns whose myriad-colored stripes confused the eye.

Shoes became ruffles of white fabric like petals brushing the floor – or a mop? – while stilettos were intentionally oversize and awkward.

This collection shows that Anderson is a rare designer who manages to mix classical fashion with perplexing ideas without sacrificing any visual beauty.

Besides, if one front row guest is snapped just knitting throughout, this surely must be the height of fashion?

Source: AP/yy
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