Bespoke suits for men: Tips from a tailor on how to get the right fit and style for you

You’ve seen how celebrities like Chinese actor Hu Ge suited up in a bespoke Giorgio Armani and Stray Kids' Hyunjin wore a tailor-made Versace for the red carpet and look like a million bucks. Similarly, wearing a suit that fits you to a T and reflects your personal style can only work to elevate your appearance, boost your confidence and create a positive impression.

In fact, every modern man needs at least one sharp suit in his wardrobe so that he can cut a dapper figure at occasions for when the need to raise the fashion stakes.

But what looks smart on the mannequin may hang quite differently on your frame as sagging shoulders, sleeves that are too long or creases at all the wrong places from an ill-fitting suit distract rather than flatter. Instead, investing in a bespoke suit may be a better option as it is custom-tailored to fit your physique and style.

“Bespoke suits are very personal to each individual, and of course, they are a lot more well fitted as compared to off-the-rack ones, since they are made to measure,” explained Nani Sugianto, owner of Iris Tailor which has been crafting bespoke suits since 1983 when her husband, Jeffrey Tan, started the business.

PERSONALISED STYLE AND PERFECT FIT

With the craftsmanship involved in creating a bespoke suit and the use of high-quality materials, bespoke suits are made to be durable and long-lasting. With custom tailoring, you can also achieve the ideal fit for your frame.

A skilled tailor will take precise measurements of the individual’s frame and tailors a suit that is crafted to his specific body shape and proportions. This ensures that the suit drapes well and comfortably on the individual’s body while enhancing his physique and appearance.

Opting for a bespoke suit also allows you to customise the design to your personal style and liking. Sugianto said that being able to tailor a suit to her customer’s taste and preferences is a highlight for them. From the fabric to the cut, colour and other details that you may desire, the customer can create a style that expresses his personality and preferences in design.

IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS

The process of making a bespoke suit is a detailed one as getting the right fit for your silhouette and personal style is critical. At your tailor of choice, you will be measured and asked about your preferences with the look, fabric and style of the suit.

“Avoid having the preconception that this is a swift process! Be mentally ready to do a couple of fittings and for the bespoke suit to take a bit more time,” Sugianto stated. At Iris Tailor, a fitting with mock fabric is prepared seven to 10 days after the measurements are taken. “This will act as their masterpiece for their future orders,” she explained. This is followed by two to three fittings before the suit is completed.

To get a bespoke suit that you’re happy with, there are a few key things to keep in mind when embarking on the process. “It is very important for people to come in with a budget in mind, as well as colour scheme preferences. The texture of the fabric is also something that people might neglect thinking about,” Sugianto said, adding that she helps to provide relevant information and address customers’ queries during the consultation sessions.

A TIMELESS STAPLE TO SUIT ALL OCCASIONS

If a man can only have one suit in his wardrobe, what should it be? “A good non-fusing suit can last you at least five years up to a decade, even! I think a good, solid, navy suit is suitable for all occasions,” she said, explaining that a non-fusing suit is one that is crafted without using glue in the internal canvas during the processing of the jacket and this usually results in a more organic look to the suit.

While bespoke suits are generally more expensive than off-the-rack options, a well-made, versatile one is considered a long-term investment. A classic, timeless suit can take you from business meetings to weddings or a stylish night out. It can also be accessorised to create different looks. With the right care, a well-crafted and durable bespoke suit can see you through all the significant moments across many years.

TIPS FOR THE PERFECT TAILORED SUIT

Iris Tailor’s Nani Sugianto shares important tips for owning the ideal bespoke suit:

1. For a good fit, the length of the pants should drop right at the ankle without break or excess.
2. It is better to have real button-holes for the sleeves of your jacket so that when you wear a double cuff shirt, you have the option of unbuttoning one hole.
3. For a more seamless look, it is better not to have belt loops on your pants. Instead, ensure that your pants are tailored to completely fit your frame.
4. Shirts that are supposed to be worn with jackets should feature sleeves that are a little longer than regular shirts that are worn alone.
5. It is better for those who are new to suit-making to choose a more durable material for their suits as lightweight materials tend to wrinkle easily. Choosing a material with weight creates a stronger and firmer suit. 

Iris Tailor is located at #01-102 Lucky Plaza