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From Hollywood rebels to K-pop icons: A brief history of the white T-shirt and how to style it today

Explore the enduring appeal of the white tee – from James Dean’s effortless style to the trendy looks of BTS' Jungkook and Blackpink’s Jennie – and discover fresh ways to wear this essential piece.

From Hollywood rebels to K-pop icons: A brief history of the white T-shirt and how to style it today

What these celebrities have to do with the white tee? (Photos: instagram/jennierubyjane, Calvin Klein Jeans, instagram/limrebecca)

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Since the third season of hit FX series The Bear aired months ago, my feed has been flooded with menswear enthusiasts documenting their search for “The Carmy T-shirt”.

The item in question? A bicep-hugging white tee worn by Jeremy Allen Whites character in the show. In case you’re curious: The coveted piece is from German brand Metz B Schwanen and retails for S$110 (US$84).

Whether a real chef would wear such a pricey tee in the kitchen is besides the point. This pop culture moment has once again catapulted the white T-shirt into the spotlight.

But what’s the secret to its timeless appeal? Here’s a breakdown of the history of this iconic garment, the people who have popularised it over the decades, and fresh ways to wear it today.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE WHITE T-SHIRT

The white T-shirt can trace its origin back to the mediaeval period, where T-shaped garments made of wool, linen or silk were worn as a protective layer under more ornate clothing.

The tradition of wearing the T-shirt as an undergarment continued into the early 20th century, when American apparel brand Hanes started mass-producing cotton white T-shirts for the US Navy. Designed for practicality, the T-shirt was lightweight, breathable and easy to wash – qualities that quickly endeared it to soldiers and sailors alike.

James Dean in Rebel Without A Cause. (Photo: Warner Bros)

The item became truly fashionable in the 1950s, thanks to Hollywood rebels like Marlon Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire and James Dean in Rebel Without A Cause. Paired with a leather jacket and denim jeans, the white T-shirt was immortalised as a symbol of youthful defiance and effortless cool.

In the 1970s, the garment became a canvas for political statements, with hippies and anti-war protestors voicing their dissent through T-shirts emblazoned with slogans like “Make Love Not War” and the peace symbol.

By the 1990s, the white T-shirt found itself at the nexus of grunge and minimalism. Kurt Cobain paired his with flannel, while designers like Calvin Klein and Helmut Lang embraced the white tee’s simplicity and accessibility.

During this period, the white T-shirt solidified its place as an essential in women’s fashion. Supermodels like Kate Moss and Christy Turlington rocked pared-down ensembles featuring the white tee as a key piece, while It-girls Gwyneth Paltrow and Winona Ryder wore theirs with slouchy leather jackets

Every now and then, tastemakers elevate the humble garment back into the zeitgeist.

In 2009, fans of streetwear brand Supreme went wild for its collaboration with Hanes – a three-pack of classic crewnecks stamped with the former’s tiny box logo.

BTS' Jungkook in an ad campaign for Calvin Klein Jeans. (Photo: Calvin Klein Jeans)

Recent viral campaigns from Calvin Klein, which showcased K-pop stars like BTS’ Jungkook and Seventeen’s Mingyu effortlessly styled in a fitted white T-shirt, also reignited interest in the fashion essential.

Street style stars like Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid have also kept the white T-shirt at the forefront of fashion. Often snapped in off-duty looks that feature the tee, these models epitomise the piece’s versatility – pairing it with everything from high-waisted trousers to biker shorts.

Closer to home, Southeast Asian celebrities have also embraced the item as a style staple. Singaporean actress Rebecca Lim is often seen in a crisp white tee paired with loose denim jeans, elevating the look with chic accessories. Meanwhile, Malaysian singer Yuna infuses her edgy, streetwear-inspired aesthetic with the timeless appeal of a white T-shirt, seamlessly blending classic and contemporary elements.

Today, nearly every fashion label has introduced its own take on the white T-shirt, available in a multitude of styles: Crew neck, V-neck, cropped, boxy, fitted or ribbed (the list goes on).

Prices vary greatly too – Gucci sells a lace T-shirt printed with its logo for S$3,525, while you can find a variety of plain white tees at Uniqlo for under S$20.

BOYS AND GIRLS: 5 FRESH WAYS TO WEAR A WHITE T-SHIRT

Few pieces are as versatile as the classic white T-shirt. You can dress the wardrobe staple up for a meeting, keep it totally casual for running errands or even make it formal for a night out. Here are some inspirations on how to style the piece.

1. COWBOY CORE

The Western cowboy aesthetic is back in the spotlight, and Bella Hadid shows us how to nail the look with modern flair. Sporting a brown vest over a white T-shirt, the model embraces classic Americana with leather pants, an ornate gold belt and snakeskin loafers. Finish with stacks of gold bangles to keep the outfit current and chic.

Try: Everlane The ‘90s Rib tee, S$48 

Everlane The ‘90s Rib tee. (Photo: Everlane)

Available at Everlane

2. WITH SHORT SHORTS

(Photo: Hermes Mens Spring/Summer 2024)

Thigh-baring shorts are the hottest menswear item right now, with Hollywood stars Paul Mescal and Donald Glover leading the trend. Go for tailored shorts and layer a lightweight blazer over your white T-shirt for a stylish, balanced look. Add polished accessories like a leather belt and sandals to avoid looking too casual.

Try: COS Heavy Duty tee, US$49 (S$64)

COS Heavy Duty tee. (Photo: COS)

Available at COS.

3. AN ECLECTIC VIBE

Blackpink’s Jennie proves that even the simplest of white tees can make a statement. For a cute, warm-weather look, take a cue from the style icon by pairing a whimsical cropped tee with a tiered skirt. Finish the outfit with contrasting black sneakers to add a touch of edge and keep the girly vibe effortlessly cool.

Try: Calvin Klein Jeans Monogram Baby Tee, S$119 

Calvin Klein Jeans Monogram Baby Tee. (Photo: Calvin Klein Jeans)

Available at Calvin Klein Jeans.

4. WITH SUPERSIZED OUTFITS

Embrace two of 2024s biggest trends – oversized tailoring and leopard prints – with this day-to-night outfit. Pair your white tee with a boxy blazer and leopard print trousers for a chic, relaxed vibe. For a more polished, office-appropriate look, swap the bold pants for sleek black trousers. The loose fit of the tee under structured tailoring creates a balanced silhouette, making this outfit a modern classic.

Try: & Other Stories Crew Neck T-shirt, S$32 

& Other Stories Crew Neck T-shirt. (Photo: & Other Stories)

Available at & Other Stories outlets.

5. UNDER A VEST

Thai actor Oab proves that the white T-shirt is anything but basic. Worn with a cream vest and denim bermuda shorts, the look strikes the perfect balance between laid-back and refined. The key here is subtle layering – nothing too flashy, just simple and stylish pieces. Round off the outfit with sneakers and a baseball cap for an ideal weekend ensemble.

Try: J Crew Vintage-wash cotton T-shirt, S$62 

J Crew Vintage-wash cotton T-shirt. (Photo: J Crew)
Available at J Crew
Source: CNA/yy

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