12 must-visit authentic cha chaan tengs in Hong Kong where locals go for classic comfort food

The cha chaan teng – which literally means “tea restaurant’ – is an intangible cultural heritage in Hong Kong and a unique facet of the city’s dining scene, serving affordable and filling meals for the masses complete with brash, speedy service.

The Western-influenced Asian staples include pork chop rice, chicken soup macaroni with ham, baked rice and pasta with cheese. A typical menu includes pork chop buns, pineapple buns, instant noodles with spam and egg, beef or pork chops, and macaroni chicken soup with ham or pork chop rice. Soya sauce and ketchup are often used in marinades and flavouring these East-West dishes.

There are sandwiches with different filling – char siu (or Cantonese-style barbecued pork), scrambled eggs, luncheon meat, and corned beef – or pineapple buns and Cantonese-style French toast slathered with butter, topped with condensed milk and sometimes peanut butter. Order a cup of hot milk tea brewed in socks or the yuenyang – a hot milk tea and freshly brewed coffee in equal portions – the piece de resistance of a cha chaan teng.

Cha chaan tengs came into being during the post-War British colonial era in the 1950s when industrialisation meant many women headed out to work in the factories to rebuild the economy. These Asian "fast food" places sprang up across the city, in residential neighbourhoods and beyond. The predecessors of the cha chaan tengs are dai pai dongs or outdoor eateries, and the bing saats, ice chambers serving cold drinks before the availability of refrigerators in households.

Everyone in Hong Kong has their own favourite cha chaan teng, and rating these can be a bit subjective. But over the decades, these local diners have also served as many movie set locations given that it’s an integral part of Hong Kong life.

While many cha chaan tengs have evolved to include English menus, many of the servers still don’t speak much English nor do they have the patience. Consider Humid with a Chance of Fishballs, which has been featured on Netflix and does a deep dive into Hong Kong’s culture and heritage.

In the meantime, here are some local favourites.

1. FOR KEE RESTAURANT

This hole in the wall is a staple in the Sheung Wan neighbourhood; best known for its sweet soy sauce marinated pork chops you can have over plain rice or a piping hot bowl of instant noodles. I come here for the tomato noodles (you can opt for vegetarian, beef or pork chops) and the beef and onion satay toast – a delicious mess that's a great way to start the day. Wash it all down with a hot cup of milk tea or iced lemon tea.

200 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2546 8947. Mon to Sat 7am to 4pm. Closed on Sundays.

2. AUSTRALIA DIARY COMPANY

This institution is best known for its steamed milk pudding and fluffy scrambled eggs served with buttery toast. The chicken macaroni soup with char siu is also worth a try if you’re feeling peckish. To avoid the long queues, show up at off-peak hours for a late lunch or mid-day snack.

47 Parkes Street, Jordan, Kowloon, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2730 1356. Mon to Sun, 7.30am to 10pm. Closed on Thursdays.

3. MIDO CAFE

Mido Cafe has survived the ebb and flow of Hong Kong’s dining scene since the 1950s. Charming vintage tiles and retro fittings make it a perfect set for Hong Kong TV dramas and classic movies such as The World Of Suzie Wong (1960), Wong Kar-wai’s Days Of Being Wild (1990), Goodbye Mr Cool (2001) and Moonlight Express (1999) to name a few. The Streamline Moderne building offers views of busy Temple Street from its second floor while its interiors evoke nostalgia from yesteryears. I’d recommend ordering the signature pork rib baked rice and the red bean ice drink and soaking up the ambience of nostalgia.

63 Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2384 6402. Mon to Sun, 10.30am to 7.30pm. Closed on Wednesdays.

4. CHEUNG HING COFFEE SHOP

A favourite with Hong Kong foodies, Cheung Hing has been around for over 70 years – a time capsule capturing the ambience of old Hong Kong with its mid-century vintage floor tiles, cosy booth seats and quick service. Diners come here for the milk tea, egg tarts and pineapple buns.

9 Yik Yam Street, Happy Valley. Tel: +852 2572 5097. Mon to Sun, 7am to 5pm.

5. HO HAH COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

Run by its third-generation heir Bill, Ho Hah started as a street pushcart selling drinks before moving into its current location in the 1980s and has stayed since. They make a tasty Hong Kong-style kaya toast, homemade kaya without pandan or coconut.

One of the few cha chaan tengs that sell sachets of their milk tea: Three types of Sri Lankan mixed black tea with instructions on how to brew it. They also serve a caffeine-free yuenyang for kids, which is equal parts Ovaltine and Horlicks. While you’re there, admire the large yellow menu with red calligraphy characters – it was the original handwritten menu that was sandwiched between acrylic panels and laser cut to precision.

266 Johnston Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong (tucked into Mallory Street). Tel: +852 2574 3069. Mon to Sun, 7am to 7pm

6. KAM WAH

Since the 1970s, Kam Wah Cafe in Mongkok has established its reputation as having the best pineapple buns served with a thick slab of butter. Try the decadent French toast, pork chop pineapple buns and the satay beef bun, along with a cup of freshly brewed hot milk tea. Be prepared to queue and share tables with strangers. Service is endearingly surly and rushed – the hallmark of Hong Kong cha chaan tengs.

47 Bute Street, Mongkok, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2392 6830. Mon to Sun, 6.30am to 9pm.

7. SHUN HING

Tucked away in Tai Hang, people come to Shun Hing for its classic char siu scrambled egg rice. Drizzle sauce generously over and enjoy the char siu, egg and rice in equal portions with every mouthful. Locals also come for instant noodles, pineapple buns, egg sandwiches or fluffy runny eggs on toast.

5 Ormsby Street, Tai Hang. Causeway Bay, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2576 6577. Tues to Sat, 7 am to 2.30pm. Closed on Mondays.

8. LAN FONG YUEN

Get here early (they open at 7.30am) to avoid long queues for their famous milk tea and potent yuenyang. Opened in 1952, in the heart of Central, Lan Fong Yuen has a hearty menu of French toast, chicken wings, pork chop buns and curry soup noodles that you can customise with extra servings of egg, spam or vegetables.

2 Gage Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2544 3895. Mon to Sat, 7.30am to 6pm. Closed on Sundays.

9. YUK KIN FAST FOOD

A no-frills longstanding eatery in Tai Ping Shan with both indoor and outdoor seating on the road, the menu serves up hearty carb-heavy dishes, its signature pork chop curry fried rice topped with an egg sunny side up. There are other options like black pepper beef fried rice, or shrimp and egg fried rice.

Shop A, G/F, Po Wan Building, 6 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan. Tel: +852 2549 2505. Mon to Sat, 8am to 430pm. Close on Sundays.

10. WING HEUNG CAFE

Opened in 1959, Wing Heung in To Kwa Wan has kept its original decor and is best known as a film backdrop for Port Of Call, an award-winning thriller based on a true story, starring Aaron Kwok. Although its name in Chinese characters says bing saat, the predecessor of Cha Chaan Tengs selling only ice drinks, its menu has evolved to serve hot foods, from freshly baked pineapple buns to French toast and instant noodles.

G/F, 29 Pau Chung Street, To Kwa Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2712 1452. Mon to Sun, 8am to 8pm.

11. CAPITAL CAFE

Opened by owners in the entertainment industry, pop star sightings are common here. However, they are best known for their fluffy scrambled eggs and French toast. Their local confectionary items are also labelled halal and it's one of the few cha chaan tengs in the city using Hokkaido milk.

Shop B1, G/F, Kwong Sang Hong Building, 6 Heard Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2666 7766. Mon to Sun, 7am to 11pm.

12. CONGTEA KAFE

This modernised cha chaan teng is tucked away in an alley in Sai Ying Pun has many offerings on the menu, including all-day dining Western and Chinese breakfasts that include the classic char siu egg and rice, croissant, ham and eggs baked beans. They’ve included a twist on traditional pineapple buns, serving up gourmet "deluxe pineapple bun burgers” stuffed with cheese, chicken or fish fillet. They have a full coffee menu, including their signature yuen yang milk tea with a shot of espresso. Ice Ovaltine is also popular with locals as it's the favourite childhood drink of Hong Kongers.

4 David Lane, Sai Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2915 8885. Mon to Sun, 8am to 6pm. Closed on Mondays.