Bikepacking in Jeju Island: How my four-day cycling trip helped me with the loss of my mother
On her first bikepacking adventure, this writer discovered breathtaking views, idyllic port towns – and the best burger of her life. Traversing the scenic and occasionally challenging terrain also helped her confront the complexities of grief and taught her how to live a more appreciative life.

The writer embarked on an impromptu four-day bikepacking adventure, traversing a 250km scenic coastal route in Jeju Island, South Korea. (Photo: Frenchescar Lim)
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In the months before my mother passed away from terminal illness in 2021, my bicycle became an unlikely companion. Plugged into a playlist of thumping tunes, I would lose myself in the rhythm of the ride, each pedal stroke taking me further away from the overwhelming demands of caregiving and the palpable sense of impending loss.
At her funeral, my uncle revealed that my mum had confessed to feeling guilty about being a constant burden to my father and me, and that she found solace in knowing that my new cycling hobby gave me a breath of freedom.
This knowledge left me torn. I stopped cycling for a while, weighed down by my guilt at realising that she had always sensed my need for a respite from my responsibilities – and, indirectly, from her – yet never held it against me.
When I later resumed riding occasionally, I never again experienced that feeling of liberation I used to have – until I went on an impromptu bikepacking trip around Jeju Island, South Korea, in September this year.
THE ROAD TO (SELF) FORGIVENESS
With mostly flat terrain, gentle slopes and a manageable distance, Jeju Island is the perfect launchpad for bikepacking newbies who may not be accustomed to long rides and challenging climbs, said my more experienced travel buddy, who once did a solo bikepacking trip in Taiwan.

Divided into 10 courses, the well-marked Jeju Fantasy Bicycle Path meanders along scenic coastal roads, with only a few elevated sections when the trail takes you into idyllic port towns. At a leisurely pace, you could complete the 234km round-island ride in four to five days.
WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
- Don’t underestimate the route. Although the trail is beginner-friendly, strong headwinds and numerous small hills can be challenging, so do build up some strength and stamina.
- Download Naver Maps for navigation. Google Maps may not function as effectively.
- Set up a Kakao T account in advance. If you have an early flight planned, this will make taxi bookings more convenient.
- Weather-proof your trip. Pack a poncho or rain jacket and extra layers, as the weather can alternate between cool and warm unexpectedly. Water-resistant covers for bags are recommended.
- Don’t forget essential gear. Bring the necessary tools and a spare set of tyres for emergencies.
Upon landing in Jeju, we checked into Mir Guesthouse near Yongduam, our starting point on the northern end of the route – we picked rest stops that didn’t stray too far from the trail; some bikepackers prefer to venture further in.
A favourite among cyclists, Mir Guesthouse is a 10-minute cab ride from Jeju International Airport. Its friendly owner Peter is fluent in English and has welcomed enough riders to readily accommodate our request to store our bike boxes until we returned from our round trip. Bikepacking is like a road trip on two wheels, where you carry just your bare necessities on your bike.
Next, we stopped by the Jeju City Tourist Information Centre, a brisk walk from Mir, to pick up a “passport” for our journey. At each of the 10 courses, you can collect stamps at designated checkpoints (resembling red phone booths) on the sticker sheet as proof of completion. We then returned to the hostel for a good night’s rest before beginning our adventure the next day.

Embarking on Day 1 of our ride, we made for Darak Shelter (21km from Mir), travelling in an anti-clockwise direction.
Our journey took an engaging turn when we met Alain, a seasoned cyclist from Quebec, Canada, during a pit stop for breakfast. His tales of bikepacking across Asia – from Seoul to Busan, with plans to conquer Taiwan and Japan next – ignited our spirits.
His advice to embrace slow travel on two wheels and to savour every moment resonated deeply as we ventured through Jeju’s unique landscape.
The quiet bustle of towns blended seamlessly into a serene landscape of black basalt rock formations – a result of volcanic activity on the island millennia ago – against a deep blue sea.


Taking Alain’s words to heart, we paused to appreciate iconic photo ops, such as the Dodu-dong Rainbow Coastal Road, with its vibrant bollards, and the whimsical Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses, which looked to me like Trojan horses.
Our journey continued past the pristine white sands and emerald waters of Hyeopjae Beach to Haegeoreum Village Park (a 21km ride), where we collected our second stamp before moving on to our last stop of the day at Songaksan (another 35km) in the city of Seogwipo.
PACK LIKE A BUDGET-CONSCIOUS PRO
- Want to bring your Brompton, but don’t have travel luggage? Here’s a tip: Buy its original carton from Carousell. Trim 7-8cm off the top so that it fits the luggage requirements of Scoot, which flies direct to Jeju.
- Use bubble wrap around the bike’s corners and delicate parts. Pack your clothes in ziplock bags and slot them around the bike as extra padding. Inform your guesthouse beforehand about storing your luggage/boxes for the duration of your ride.
- If that’s too much of a hassle, you can rent bikes from Biketrip, a 5-min walk from the airport.
Pedalling along the western coast, we were greeted by stunning views of towering wind turbines along the Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road.
Nearing the end of Day 1, we faced our first challenge in the form of formidable headwinds after nearly 10 hours of cycling. Drained, yet determined, we pushed our bikes for the next 45 minutes and finally arrived at our hostel, ttottot Jeju Backpackers.

Weary but satisfied at having achieved a distance of 85km on the first day of our bikepacking adventure, we settled in for the night, unaware that the next day would test our limits even further.
HILLS OF HOPE
Opting to go easy after the previous day’s gruelling ride, we decided to complete just two checkpoints for Day 2, moving from Songaksan to Beophwan Badang (30km) and Soesokkak (14km). We had been expecting cool September weather of 16-20 degrees Celsius, but faced intense heat, coupled with relentless climbs as we headed into the quaint port towns along the southern trail.


But in a moment of exhausted epiphany, I was struck by the parallels between cycling and life: Tough, uphill battles often lead to gratifying descents. And you’ll learn not to fear the sight of a looming slope because unexpected gems might await you at the end – such as the moment when we pushed past an especially steep climb and were rewarded for our perseverance with a breathtaking ocean vista around the corner.

Riding on, we passed Beophwan Village, where we spotted several black-clad haenyeo (Jeju’s legendary female divers), and stopped for a moment to admire their incredible strength and resilience.
Our relatively short day ended at Gudeok Guesthouse. After checking in, we explored the buzzing Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market, a blend of traditional and modern, offering everything from local delicacies and produce to Jeju souvenirs and street food.
Day 3’s journey along the southern coast was a testament to Jeju’s unpredictable weather, with sudden thunderstorms forcing us to seek shelter multiple times.
Midway through a severely disrupted ride to Pyoseon Beach (28km), we decided to stop for lunch at Mr Crab. There, we tucked into a hearty Cajun-style seafood boil served with uniquely Korean elements such as seaweed rice and abalone.
You’ll learn not to fear the sight of a looming slope because unexpected gems might await you at the end.
Post-lunch, we resumed our journey in contemplative silence along a tranquil tree-lined stretch to our next stop at Seongsan Ilchulbong (22km). Feeling myself easing into the zone, I looked down to see a yellow butterfly hitching a ride on my handlebar. Lingering for almost a minute, it felt like a comforting sign from my mother, reminding me of the joys of cycling and her presence on my journey.

This lifted my spirits, and I silently thanked her as I rode on, re-invigorated, to our final destination for Day 3 at CO-OP City Hotel Seongsan.
COMING FULL CIRCLE
As we were on a tight schedule, we didn’t make it to catch the sunrise on Seongsan Ilchulbong – a bucket-list item for many travellers – on Day 4. Winding along the eastern coast, we discovered the sparkling Gimnyeong Beach (29km) with its cobalt-blue waters and the lively Hamdeok Beach (9km) further along, packed with groups of holiday makers.

Stopping to fix a flat tyre, we found ourselves serendipitously in front of Mooger Burger, an upscale burger joint known for its speciality carrot, garlic and spinach buns, and spectacular views.
Featured on the Netflix travel series The Hungry And The Hairy, the burgers certainly live up to its fame. Happily sated with one of the best – and most unique – burgers you’ll find in Jeju, we were all set to hasten back to Yongduam, our final 25km.

Navigating our way back to the city took us to the peak of Sarabong Park (more ascents and descents, welp) and down to the port of Jeju. As I looked up at the sign that informed me I was less than 10km away from our final checkpoint, I felt overcome with a surge of emotions and… cried.

Reflecting on the past few days, I had not anticipated the profound sense of gratitude for life that this journey would awaken in me, nor the sense of fulfilment at having completed my first bikepacking trip.
Yet, there was a pang of grief as, once again, the realisation that I could no longer share stories with my mum hit hard. But in my sorrow, there was also a newfound appreciation for my dad and loved ones, who are still here to listen to tales of my unforgettable experience.


My journey was more than just a physical challenge; it was a life-affirming, healing passage through grief. Through it, I learnt more about the intertwined nature of joy and sadness, life and loss. Now, whenever I cycle, I take comfort in the enduring connection with my mum and imagine she’s along for the ride, too.
If you’re also headed to Seoul:
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