Former Zazz Pizza co-owner now works at new pizzeria in Little India

In October 2023, fans of Zazz Pizza were dismayed to learn that the wood-fired pizzeria at Cross Street Exchange was closing for good after six years in business. A staff member told 8days.sg that the restaurant was shuttering as the mall would be undergoing extensive renovations.

At the time, Zazz co-owner and chef Hiran Fernando, 51, remained tight-lipped about his future plans. Turns out he had exciting news up his sleeve – the pizza maestro is back slinging pies at Fernando’s New York Slices. Opened in November at the nondescript Trio Mall in Little India, the fast-casual pizza joint offers “New York-style” slices (minimum order of two) alongside whole pies as well as sides like fried chicken wings and meatballs, and pastas.

HE HAS LEFT ZAZZ

Chef Fernando confirmed that he is no longer working for the company, which started in 2018 as a modest pizza shop on Short Street and evolved into a spacious 60-seat restaurant at Cross Street Exchange in 2021. The chef declined to elaborate on his exit and expressed uncertainty about whether Zazz's owner will reopen the restaurant in the future.

“Of course I’m sad to close Zazz. I’ve worked really hard for the business. For two years, I worked without taking any days off,” shared the Sri Lankan-born chef who has honed his pizza expertise for over two decades, including a 14-year tenure as executive chef of casual thin-crust pizza chain Spizza.

Though the new eatery bears his name, Chef Fernando clarified that he does not own Fernando’s New York Slices. “I found a good investor who put me fully in charge of everything,” he said rather cryptically.

The chef explained that he is open to an ownership stake in the future, but is currently happy with his role as an executive chef: “For now, I just want to focus on my food. Once you give your best, the customers will come.

WHY PIVOT TO A MORE CASUAL NEW YORK-STYLE PIZZA CONCEPT?

“I’ve always wanted to do New York-style pizza because, in the past, a lot of Zazz customers would ask for quicker service. This is a style of pizza that suits a fast-casual concept. I’ve simplified the preparation process so it’s easier for staff to learn how to make it,” he said, hinting at plans for additional outlets later this year.

At Zazz, the chef used to bake his Neapolitan-inspired pizzas in a wood-fired oven that infused the pies with a smoky flavour but required a longer preparation time due to its reliance on using wood for heat. Now, Fernando’s gas oven ensures a quicker cooking time for the NY-style pizzas.

Apart from adopting the quick service takeaway model of NYC slice shops, we didn’t really find the eatery’s pies to be quintessentially “New York-style”. Traditional NY-style pies are often large, wide (usually around 18 inches) and round, while Fernando’s square pizzas are around 12 inches.

Though his new joint’s pizzas are definitely thinner than Zazz’s heftier, breadier neo-Neopolitan-style pies, they aren’t as slim as a classic New York slice. The chef agreed: “Yes it’s not that thin, I wanted to keep to a chewy texture.” The typical New York slice also tends to be a little greasy and blanketed with cheese from edge to edge – Fernando’s version is restrained, offering better balance between the different toppings.

Chef Fernando added that he did not draw inspiration from any specific NYC pizzerias for his new eatery. “I used to make New York-style pizzas when I was working in Dubai,” he said, referring to his time cooking at Hilton Dubai Jumeirah in his 20s.

PIZZA DOUGH MADE FROM SCRATCH BY THE CHEF

The eatery has hired a couple of part-time assistants to help with pizza assembly, but chef Fernando insists on preparing the dough personally daily. He uses a “secret” flour mix that we’re told is vastly different from Zazz’s Italy-imported flour. The dough is fermented for 72 hours – longer than Zazz’s, which takes 48 hours.

“It’s to create a lighter, crispier texture that’s more suited for deliveries,” he explained.

The hand-stretched pies are shaped in a 12-inch rectangular pan (another change from Zazz’s traditional circular shape) before being baked in an electric stone oven.

OVER A DOZEN FLAVOURS AVAILABLE

There are about 15 pizza flavours on offer, ranging from the classic margherita to meatier options like pepperoni and house-made sausage. All pizzas are baked fresh, whether you order by slices or the whole pie.

The minimum order is two slices, which add up to roughly half a 12-inch pizza (the chef bakes these in the same pan, using half the dough). Prices start from S$12 for two slices and S$23 for a whole pie. Generally, the pies here are more affordable than Zazz’s, which were mostly in the S$30 to S$34 range for a full-sized one.

FAST CASUAL CONCEPT WITH NO GST OR SERVICE CHARGE

The decor is bare-bones, with splashes of leafy green and neon shop signs brightening up the simple, predominantly white interior. While primarily designed for takeaways, there are 12 counter seats for those who prefer to eat in.

The eatery runs on a self-service model, which means no service charge. Place your order at the cashier counter kiosk and watch your made-to-order pizzas get crafted in the open kitchen. Once ready, you can collect your freshly baked pies from the counter.

THE TRIO AT TRIO, S$12 FOR TWO SLICES; S$23 WHOLE (FEEDS 2 PEOPLE)

Kind of a hybrid between a NYC slice and a Naples-style pie, the margherita has a crispy, thinner centre and a thicker crust that offers a fairly light, chewy texture. While not as toasty and pillowy as we’d like, the dough is quite flavourful and tastes decent on its own.

The red sauce is bright and tangy, while the melty mozzarella and cream cheese topping make for a perfect cheese pull with every bite. The sturdy slices also hold up well – we reheated some leftovers the next day and the base remained pleasantly crispy and chewy.

PRINCE RONI, S$15 FOR TWO SLICES; S$28 WHOLE

No, this isn’t inspired by the fabulous square Sicilian pies from famous New York joint Prince Street Pizza despite its name. While it doesn’t taste quite the same as Prince St’s bready-crusty version, this has all the flavours we look for in a good pepperoni pizza.

It’s slightly smoky and deeply savoury, while the sliced salami is mildly spicy with a nice chew. Fernando’s house-made chilli-infused honey dip – inspired by popular Brooklyn-based condiment brand Mike’s Hot Honey – works brilliantly with the savoury richness of this pie.

SAUSAGE FEST, S$12 FOR TWO SLICES; S$23 WHOLE

A pleasing combination of a mozzarella base, nutty broccoli rabe and house-made pork sausage that’s equal parts spicy and herby. A tad saltier than the red-sauced pies.

THREE LITTLE PIGS, S$8

Tasty house-made pork meatballs dunked in a rich, garlicky marinara sauce with lots of gooey cheddar and mozzarella, finished with a sprinkle of grated parmesan. Too bad they aren’t stuffed with melty cheese, like what chef used to serve at Zazz.

GARFIELD'S FAVOURITE, S$18

A lush lasagna layered with beef ragu, silky-smooth pasta sheets slathered with a robust, cheesy tomato sauce. Very indulgent, filling and yummy.

Strictly speaking, the pizzas here aren’t true to New York-style, but we found them pretty satisfying nonetheless. The classic pepperoni with hot honey is our fave, while the luscious lasagna and saucy meatballs are worthy companions. Prices are on par with other casual New York-style slice shops, but unlike the latter which hawks pre-made pies sitting on a shelf, even the slices here are baked-to-order. A huge plus, in our book.

Fernando’s New York Slices is at 11 Sam Leong Road, #01-09, Trio Mall, Singapore 207903. Opens Mon-Fri 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm; Sat & Sun 11.30am to 10pm.

This story was originally published in 8Days.