Best eye cream practices to target wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness

The first signs of ageing tend to show up around the eye area. Why so? Simply because the skin is delicate around the eye area.

“The skin around the eye, or periorbital skin, is more delicate than facial skin, being thinner and containing fewer oil glands,” explained Dr Lee Hwee Chyen, medical director and consultant dermatologist, Epi Dermatology & Laser Specialist Clinic.

And with blood vessels being more visible in the eye area, it makes the appearance of dark circles more apparent as well.

In addition, the eye area also has less collagen and elastin. “Due to the anatomical differences, the area around the eyes lacks the same level of structural support compared to the rest of the face. As such, it is more vulnerable to the effects of gravity and reduced collagen production," shared Dr Pamela Chong of Epion Clinic.

"Less sebum production also leads to dryness and increased susceptibility to sun damage and environmental stressors. In addition, this area is in constant movement due to blinking and expressions, which contribute to the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.”

WHY THE NEED FOR AN EYE CREAM?

Exactly how different is the skin around the eyes versus our face?

According to Dr Chong, the scientific rationale behind incorporating eye creams into one’s skincare regimen lies in their ability to address the distinctive challenges posed by the area round the eyes such as skin laxity and the appearance of fine lines.

The ingredients to look for in an eye cream are similar to what you would want in your facial products.

• Hyaluronic acid for hydration.
• Peptides to boost elastin, collagen and hydration around the eyes.
• Caffeine, which is a vasoconstrictor, can help reduce blood vessels and in turn, the appearance of puffiness and dark circles.
• Retinols to address signs of anti-ageing like fine lines and wrinkles. However, Dr Lee cautioned that it should be in lower concentrations to avoid causing irritation around the eye area.
• Antioxidants, such as vitamin C and niacinamide, to protect against free radical damage and address hyperpigmentation woes and dark circles. Though, these actives, should also be used in lower concentrations to avoid irritation, said Dr Lee.  

So should you apply your regular moisturiser as an eye cream? Both Drs Lee and Chong advised against doing so.

“The eyes demand special attention, and not all moisturisers are created equal,” warned Dr Chong. Dr Lee agreed, adding that “regular face creams are typically not recommended for use around the eye area due to their potentially higher concentrations of ingredients”.

Also facial moisturisers tend to have heavier textures and can therefore be too heavy or harsh for the thinner, more delicate skin around the eyes. Prolonged use of rich creams can increase the risk of irritation and milia (those pesky small white bumps) under the eye area.

However, if you do find yourself without an eye cream, both doctors shared that gentle face moisturisers are generally safe to use and can do the job. Both dermatologists highlighted that they may be insufficient in countering the effects of ageing and laxity, and should still be used with caution. 

In such instances, Dr Chong advised choosing a moisturiser that is fragrance-free to avoid irritation, oil-free to avoid clogging pores and milia formation, and non-comedogenic. “A lightweight lotion or gel is more suitable as such formulas absorb quickly and won’t feel heavy on the delicate under-eye area.”

6 BEST EYE CREAM PRACTICES

1. Always be gentle. Avoid rubbing or tugging during application, which may cause irritation and exacerbate wrinkles. Overzealous rubbing can also result in the blood vessels that lie close to the skin surface becoming damaged, causing inflammation and swelling.

2. Damp skin preferred. Applying your eye product whilst skin is damp can enhance absorption, and in turn, the active ingredients, shared Dr Lee.

3. Start small. Use a pea-sized amount of product – with the eye area being thinner, you don’t really need a lot.

4. Dab or tap. With your ring finger – it naturally has the least pressure, gently dab or tap the product into the under-eye area, moving outwards towards the temples, leaving a margin of half an inch from the eyelid.

For the upper eye area, start just below the inner part of the brow, moving sideways and upwards along the orbital bone surrounding the eye.

5. Avoid the lash-line. Never apply the product directly onto the lashes as it can irritate and cause problems. “If your product specifies that it is suitable for use on the upper lids, tap the product down the lids, being careful to stop above the lashes,” advised Dr Chong.

6. AM Vs PM. Like your serums and moisturisers, some eye creams are formulated to be used at specific times. Choose those with brightening actives or caffeine for the daytime and anti-ageing ingredients for the night, said Dr Chong.

GET WIDE-EYED WITH THESE 5 EYE CREAMS

1. TheFaceShop Rice Water Bright Vegan Eye Cream, S$28

Alongside its signature fermented rice water that’s rich in brightening and skin barrier strengthening properties, this nourishing eye cream also uses a blend of natural butters – shea, palm oil, palm kernel oil and soybean extracts, to leave the eye area supple while erasing the appearance of dark circles.

Available at www.thefaceshop.com.sg

2. Est.Lab OptimaLift A+ Firming Eye Cream, S$119

Infused with a natural alternative to retinol – collagen-boosting bakuchiol, together with caffeine, purple algae extract and trio of moisturising actives and peptides, it softens the appearance of fine lines, reduces puffiness and promotes collagen production for a smoother and youthful looking eye area.

Available at www.estlab.shop

3. Fresh Black Tea Advanced Age Renewal Eye Cream, S$122

Powered by a retinol-like blend of black tea and rambutan leaf extracts, together with vitamin C, this lightweight eye cream targets signs of ageing on the different zones of the eye area, from under-eye and crow’s feet to lid and brow bone. The delicate eye area looks brighter and more youthful.

Available at Fresh boutiques.

4. Cle de Peau Beaute Eye Contour Cream Supreme, S$360

A multi-tasking eye cream that visibly reduces the appearance of wrinkles, dark circles and under-eye puffiness while lifting droopy eyelids. The key lies in the use of a unique Future-Sculpt Technology and proprietary blend of golden botanical extracts to address these signs of ageing and reveal youthful looking peepers.

Available at Cle de Peau Beaute boutique and counters.

5. La Prairie Skin Caviar Eye Lift, S$865

Enriched with a proprietary caviar infinite and caviar micro-nutrients, this lush cream delivers rich nourishment to skin ligaments, strengthening and rebuilding its support from within. Plus, the use of an exclusive cellular complex helps re-sculpt the eye contours, firm the skin, lift droopy lids and brows, and smooth out wrinkles too.

Available at La Prairie boutique and counters.