Meet Hong Kong's Kinyan Lam, the LVMH Prize semi-finalist who's redefining slow fashion

Just three years after launching his eponymous fashion label, Guangzhou-born, Hong Kong-based designer Kinyan Lam has emerged as one of Asia's most promising names in contemporary fashion. 

Earlier this year, he was named one of just 20 semi-finalists for the prestigious 2026 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, chosen from more than 2,400 applicants worldwide. 

The accolade placed him among the industry's most exciting emerging talents and made his label only the third from Hong Kong to reach the competition's semifinal stage.

The recognition is remarkable, not only because of the speed of his rise, but also because fashion was never the career he imagined for himself.

"I had, since young, dreamt of becoming a painter or some kind of artist," the 31-year-old told CNA Lifestyle in an email interview. "But along the way to adulthood, I discovered an interest in textiles and a desire to create, which led me to study fashion."

That decision set him on an educational journey through the Hong Kong Design Institute, Nottingham Trent University and the London College of Fashion. While researching textile techniques during his studies, he stumbled upon an ancient craft that would ultimately become the defining language of his work: natural dyeing.

"It amazed me that you could produce so many colours from natural materials like plants, insects and minerals," he said. "I became so intrigued that I apprenticed with French natural dye expert Michel Garcia to learn as much as I could."

By then, Lam had completed his master's degree at the London College of Fashion and returned to Hong Kong to teach fashion design part-time at his alma mater, the Hong Kong Design Institute. Yet his fascination with natural dyeing only continued to grow.

"I've often been asked where my interest comes from," he said. "I think it stems from my love of nature. I grew up in the countryside, surrounded by mountains and a river, before my family moved to Hong Kong. Those memories of playing outdoors have stayed with me ever since."

A BRAND BORN FROM CRAFT

Natural dyeing eventually became more than a research interest – it became Lam's life's work.

In 2022, he established Genau Studio, a laboratory dedicated to researching natural dyes, experimenting with traditional techniques and sharing the craft through workshops and education. At the time, however, building a fashion brand was never the objective.

It was only after receiving encouraging feedback at an independent designers' showcase that he decided to launch Kinyan Lam in 2023.

At first glance, Lam's garments possess an earthy, almost imperfect beauty. Their uneven hues, softly textured fabrics and raw finishes reveal the human hand behind every piece, standing in deliberate contrast to the uniformity of industrial fashion.

Inside his dye laboratory, Lam experiments with a wide range of natural materials. Among his favourites are persimmon, sophora, indigo and sappanwood, prized for producing particularly stable colours.

Every garment is dyed entirely by hand – a meticulous process that often involves repeated applications, lengthy drying under the sun and different preparation methods depending on both the fibre and dye material.

"Each natural dye behaves differently," he explained. "Some require cold water, others hot water. Every fabric also needs different preparation before the dyeing even begins."

The colours themselves continue evolving long after the garments leave the workshop.

"Natural dyes are living colours," Lam said. "Some deepen over time, and the way people wear and care for the garments influences how they age. The wearer becomes part of the story."

Rather than viewing these subtle changes as imperfections, Lam embraces them as evidence of authenticity – a record of the garment's life and the relationship between maker, material and owner.

REVIVING HERITAGE THROUGH FASHION

Hand embroidery forms another cornerstone of Lam's collections.

The motifs begin as his own designs before being embroidered by artisans from the Dong ethnic community in Guizhou, China. Renowned for their intricate embroidery, weaving and the production of Dong cloth – a traditional indigo textile celebrated for its lustrous finish and months-long production process – the artisans bring generations of knowledge to every piece.

Lam first encountered Dong textiles while conducting research during his studies.

"I was captivated by the beauty of the craft and the incredible skills of the Dong women," he said. "I felt their workmanship was every bit as refined as European couture artisans."

His admiration eventually led him to Guizhou, where he immersed himself in their textile traditions before beginning a long-term collaboration with the artisans.

For Lam, the partnership is about much more than sourcing exceptional craftsmanship.

"It would be a huge loss if traditional textile arts like these disappeared," he said. "I hope that by incorporating them into contemporary fashion, I can help preserve these crafts and encourage younger generations to continue the heritage."

SLOWING DOWN FOR A PURPOSE

Although Lam is frequently described as a sustainable fashion label, Lam says sustainability was never his starting point.

"My clothes aren't solely about fashion," he said. "They carry a rare human touch through the craftsmanship, and they're honest about the people and stories behind every piece."

Nevertheless, sustainability has become a natural outcome of that philosophy. Every garment is produced in limited quantities using painstaking handcraft, making mass production neither practical nor desirable.

The approach also reflects changing consumer attitudes.

"People today are asking different questions about fashion and luxury," Lam observed. "Especially after the pandemic, consumers have become much more reflective. They want to understand the background of a brand, how products are made and what values the company stands for."

He believes this growing appreciation for authenticity has helped his label resonate with audiences around the world.

"I'd like to think we're one of the few Asian brands with a strong narrative," he said. "There's warmth in our work because every piece carries cultural heritage and the human touch."

DEFINING SUCCESS DIFFERENTLY

Demand for Lam's creations continues to grow, but expanding production is not part of his ambition.

The labour-intensive processes behind every garment naturally limit how much the studio can produce – and Lam intends to keep it that way.

Rather than chasing rapid growth or commercial success, he wants to devote his energy to refining his craft, supporting traditional artisans and ensuring every piece meets his exacting standards.

For Lam, success is measured not by the size of the business, but by the legacy it leaves behind.

"If I can continue doing what I'm passionate about and support traditional craftsmanship," he said, "that would be success for me."

Kinyan Lam is available online at Farfetch, 24th of August, Common Place and also Joyce boutiques in Hong Kong.