A weekend getaway with horses at this Johor resort where you can enjoy the country life

We are riding in single file into the dense jungle thicket, filled with endless rows of tropical palm trees. My trusty steed is Shuttle Express, a former racehorse and skilled jumper who is calmly plodding along.  A slight gust of wind blows. Shuttle Express suddenly startles, and I calm him down in a reassuring voice. The one-and-a-half journey is slow, meditative almost. It has me singularly focused on my horse and the path ahead.

This isn’t your usual Johor Bahru itinerary – none of your usual sights of JB Sentral, hipster cafes or massage spots.

Instead, I’m situated in the small town of Kulai. An hour’s drive from Woodlands Checkpoint, the town is replete with old-school eateries and located near Gunung Pulai’s lush rainforest where civet cats, tapirs and monkeys roam.

In January, I booked a weekend stay at Riders Resort, seeking out the country life with horses and the wide expanse of nature.  Home to riding trails, equestrian facilities and a sprawling colonial-style mansion, Riders Resort has long been a refuge for off-the-beaten path travellers like myself.

HEALING POWER OF HORSES

Growing up, I’d always nursed a love for horses. My father would drive past the Singapore Polo Club in Thomson, stopping to let me interact with the horses at the stables. In secondary school, I cared for mischievous falabellas (miniature ponies) during a stint at the Singapore Zoo.

On my travels, I rode overseas at every opportunity, in Hawaii, Yunnan and my most challenging yet – a six-hour horse ride through heart-stoppingly narrow mountain ridges at Kolsai Lakes, Kazakhstan on a trip organised by boutique travel agency Beyond Expeditions.

Two years ago, a desire to have horses more closely intertwined in my daily life saw me volunteering with Herd Singapore, a social enterprise which offers equine assisted intervention.

In caring for these horses, it helped me with my own mental health struggles. Their sensitive nature and gentle energy grounded me. I also witnessed first-hand the horses’ healing power when shadowing Herd’s programmes. It was beautiful to see how a widow processed her grief while blind horse Stardom leaned its body gently against her, or how it brought out the softer side in the youths-at-risk, and inspired a sense of confidence in children with cancer.

Just recently, a fellow Herd volunteer and I sought out private riding lessons at Nadi Equestrian Centre, just a 20-minute drive away from the checkpoint. My riding coach Aly is based in Singapore, but makes the trip to JB frequently to see her beloved horse Storm, who she houses there as the rates are cheaper.

It was Aly who told us about Riders Resort, which got us intrigued.

ARRIVING AT RIDERS RESORT  

Arriving at Riders Resort on a Friday evening, it felt far removed from the mad rush of Singapore city life. As my travel companion and I wandered around the grounds, I felt like I could finally breathe again. 

We made a beeline for the stables, home to 16 horses, four ponies and a mini-petting zoo of goats, rabbits and cats. I took a particular liking to By Appointment, the resident introvert. “Though I prefer keeping to myself, my stable manners are impeccable,” his sign read.

We stopped to observe two young Swiss girls taking a riding lesson in the riding ring, and they later told us their school often holds camps here. 

I marvelled at how different their childhood was compared to most Singaporean kids. Instead of burying their heads in assessment books indoors, theirs was one where they could roam free in the outdoors, without a parent hovering over their every move.

This idea of nature as a classroom has been pivotal to the resort’s ethos.

I met the resort's grand dame Janet Yeo, 78, an icon in Malaysia’s advertising circles back in the eighties. She is married to Yeo Chee Yan, a member of the Yeo Hiap Seng family (yes, the beverage manufacturer).

Twenty-two years ago, Janet and two other partners leased the four-hectare land to build Riders Lodge. In 2019, Janet's family took over 100 percent ownership of the resort and rebranded it as The Riders Resort. The family injected more than 3 million ringgit (slightly less than S$1 million back then) to give the place a fresh makeover.

While occupancy dropped during the pandemic, Riders is seeing more guests returning from both Singapore and Malaysia.

Interestingly, Riders Resort has hosted many international school camps from both Malaysia and Singapore since its inception, such as Swiss School in Singapore. This year, there are five school camps in the pipeline.

The camp days are filled with horse management activities, jungle trail rides, horse games like musical chairs on horseback, learning to bake with the resort’s chef. The children also receive medals and awards for cleanest room and best decorated horseshoe.

The activities aim to build team spirit, independence, responsibility, improve focus and nurture a love for animals and nature.

“The kids come here and forget everything else. They do things they won’t normally do, like feeding, bathing the horse or cleaning the dung. You’ll be amazed at how they develop this love for these majestic animals,” said Janet.

Almost every weekend, you’ll find her here at Riders Resort, pottering away at her tropical heliconia plants or chit-chatting with guests. She’s become a familiar face to her guests, who greet her like family.

“We have guests that just come here to ride, read a book and chill, and then they go back to the rat race,” she explained. I was surprised to learn that even at her age, Janet liked to work in the background, even helping to manage the resort’s Facebook. It’s an “era of learning” for her, she says.

Over the two days we spent there, time seemed to unspool in lazy fashion. We enjoyed a Western style breakfast from the restaurant’s in-house cafe), played pool, and read. Making the stay extra pleasant was the friendly staff. But don’t expect a five-star hotel here. It’s more rustic kampung style – some walls still need some patching up, or a fresh coat of paint, for instance.

Nonetheless, we weren’t too fussed. We spent more time outside the room anyway, sitting on the tree swing, observing a kingfisher circling around the pond. At night, all was quiet and still, save for the sound of the cicadas. 

A NEW WAY FORWARD

Taking over the Riders’ helm is Janet’s son, Yeo Wei Jun, 33. He hopes to breathe new life into this storied institution.

To appeal to more folks, Riders Resort has hosted many wedding ceremonies and dinners, anniversary parties, and company team building events.

For instance, they once held a birthday celebration for a 78-year-old, complete with a horse parade in the garden, and even a Halloween party with a stable night walk. Wei Jun had his own garden wedding too, with 100 guests. In the pipeline, there are plans for yoga and meditation retreats, among others.

Originally trained as a chef, Wei Jun hopes to also change up the café’s menu with more grilled items and buffets for big groups. 

With the impending closing of the Singapore Turf Club, one can expect to see many more riders heading to Malaysia for their horse riding. Wei Jun said it’s a great opportunity to welcome them to Riders. “More people in Singapore should have a chance to enjoy the countryside living, open space and the fresh air here."

PERSONAL STORIES

This proximity to nature and horses was what kept couple French national Alexis Lavergne and China national Fan Yang coming back for the last ten years.

Back in 2014, the young couple had been looking for a place to do horse riding and chanced upon Riders online. Soon, it became their weekend ritual to head to Riders – to the extent that Alex even bought a motorbike for the commute. They’ve seen the place evolve through the years (there’s Internet now, they joke).

“This place is where we go to disconnect from busy Singapore and reconnect with wider spaces. Showing our son all the stars in the bright night sky was a key memory, just like the first time he walked across the stable and got to experience the proximity with horses,” said Alexis.

Riders horse trainer Bonnie Ngan has witnessed how the children blossom with horses. Most days, you’ll find the 28-year-old Malaysian conducting lessons in the ring. To upgrade her skills, Bonnie would also regularly travel down to Singapore to get certified on horse management and riding at the Bukit Timah Saddle Club.

“I taught this boy with autism who couldn’t sit still on the horse at first. But now, he can hold the reins by himself and do some turning… It’s really cool,” she said.

Most animal lovers would argue that every animal brings joy, but to me, the horse-riding lifestyle embodies a different kind of zen. It's a way of being totally present, compassionate, physically aware and balanced in our bodies, as we gain a profound sense of peace.

Visit the Riders Resort website for details. Room rates start from RM298 (S$83).