What to eat, shop and see in Hong Kong’s trendy Sheung Wan: A guide to temples, cafes and vintage finds

Nestled between the towering skyscrapers of Central Hong Kong, Sheung Wan is a fascinating blend of history and contemporary urban development. This eclectic neighbourhood offers a unique mix of historic temples, dried seafood markets, cha chaan tengs, trendy coffee shops, Michelin-starred restaurants, and indie boutiques. 

The Sheung Wan neighbourhood is best explored on foot, as it is easily accessible from the MTR station and is walkable from the Central and Sai Ying Pun districts. The main road arteries that run through are Queens Road West and Des Voeux Road West.

Once a trading hub filled with herbal shops, dried seafood stalls, and traditional temples, Sheung Wan, which has regularly been cited as one of the coolest neighbourhoods in the world by TimeOut, has evolved into a cultural enclave of indie cafés, design studios, art galleries, and boutiques. Juxtaposed against antique curio stores, traditional wooden coffin shops are modern cafés, trendy restaurants and colourful street art.

TEMPLES, TONG LAUS AND TIME TRAVEL

Stroll down Hollywood Road towards Man Mo Temple (124 Hollywood Road). Built in 1847, this heritage monument features giant incense coils hanging from the ceiling along with larger-than-life deity statues. People continue to come here to pray for protection, prosperity, and academic success. You can also pick up some lucky charms based on your Chinese Zodiac for good luck and protection. Across from Man Mo Temple is Hollywood Road Park, which has plenty of space for kids to run around and observe turtles and fish in the pond. 

Sheung Wan was home to many Chinese migrant labourers in the 19th century, and one will find numerous small temples along the streets and alleys. During the bubonic plague of 1894, many lost their lives, and these temples still house altar tablets for lost souls who had no next of kin.

Admire the low-rise Southern Chinese architecture of Tong Laus, which reflects colonial influences through decorative stucco details, arched windows, and doors reminiscent of Georgian and Victorian architecture, as well as Art Deco details from the 1930s. These buildings, akin to Singapore's shophouses, typically have businesses on the ground floor and residences on the upper floors.

Be sure to make an appointment to visit the Liang Yi Museum (199 Hollywood Road), a private museum and home to one of the world's most extensive collections of antique furniture from the Ming and Qing dynasties. Take a stroll along Hollywood Road and Upper Lascar Row for vintage trinkets and curios hidden in the back alleys.

Head further west towards the dried seafood streets (Wing Lok Street and Bonham Strand), where you can find dried goods like scallops, sea cucumbers, and fish maw – essential ingredients for enhancing the umami and texture of your Chinese soups. Ko Shing Street, also known as "Medicine Street," is lined with traditional Chinese medicine shops offering delicacies such as bird's nest, ginseng, and exotic animal parts like deer penis and rhinoceros horns, believed to treat health ailments and enhance men’s vitality.

BEST EATS AND SIPS IN SHEUNG WAN

Sheung Wan offers an abundance of great restaurants, cafes, and bars across various price ranges. A local staple is Samsen (23 Jervois Street). Despite being open for years, this Thai eatery consistently draws crowds. It's best to avoid peak dining hours and try their delicious dishes, including chicken curry, khao soi and pad thai. 

Another must-visit is Yardbird (154-158 Wing Lok Street). Their yakitori skewers feature every part of the chicken, grilled to perfection, along with Korean Fried Cauliflower and their signature chicken and egg rice. The menu also offers a diverse selection of highballs and cocktails, with sake and wine available to pair with your meal. Don't miss Always Joy (148 Wing Lok Street), the younger sibling of Yardbird and a modern izakaya. Their granola soft serve for dessert is a must-try.

Congee is a staple in Hong Kong, and Sang Kee Congee Shop (7 Burd Street), has been serving comforting bowls of congee made with slow-cooked pork bone broth for the past 40 years. Enjoy it with handmade dace fish balls.

For a caffeine boost, head to Shui Kee, located at the Sheung Wan Cooked Food Centre at Queen’s Road Central. They serve authentic milk tea (available in both hot and cold options) in glass bottles, which pairs perfectly with their Canto French toast slathered in condensed milk, we like the option to add peanut butter.

Halfway Coffee (26 Upper Lascar Row) is a charming, trendy cafe featuring a mishmash of vintage furniture and is best known for its Hong Kong porcelain cups – a popular stop for locals and tourists alike, perfect for a quick break during your shopping adventures. 

Its neighbour, Dandy's Organic Cafe (32 Upper Lascar Row), offers wholesome salads and protein-rich sides, with plenty of vegan options available. If you're looking for something more upscale, try Mora next door (40 Upper Lascar Row). This one-Michelin-starred restaurant, recognised with a Green Star, features an innovative soy-led menu crafted by chef Vicky Lau, who is also the chef proprietor of the two-Michelin-starred Tate restaurant (210 Hollywood Road).

Just a short walk away, you'll encounter snaking queues at Snack Baby (93 to 95 Hollywood Road). This neighbourhood gelateria and snack bar serves up delicious Italian-style gelato, with animal-free and lactose-free options, as well as a selection of non-alcoholic and low-alcohol beverages. Signature flavours include Pistachio Crunch, BB Cinnamon (a delightful mix of tangy berries and ground cinnamon), and Rich Milk with Snack Crackle (a combination of latte, mascarpone, and house-made Snack Crackle). My personal favourite is the intense chocolate and espresso stracciatella. Don't forget to try one of their cocktails for an aperitivo, such as the Affogato Baby (Espresso, Coffee Liqueur, and vanilla ice cream) or the HK Island Iced Tea (Earl Grey Bourbon, Lavender Honey, and Elderflower Liqueur).

Another fantastic stop is Nordic cafe Venner (161 Hollywood Road), where you can indulge in traditional pastries, including cardamom buns and Skolbrod, a Norwegian rye sourdough bun filled with custard. “Venner," which means "friends" in Norwegian, perfectly captures the cosy atmosphere where you can escape the bustle of Hong Kong. In the evening, the cafe transforms into an intimate wine bar, offering organic wines and small plates.

If you're wandering around the Tai Ping Shan area, grab lunch or a late breakfast at Yu Kin Fast Food (6 Tai Ping Shan Street). This no-frills eatery has a longstanding reputation and provides both indoor and outdoor seating. Be sure to try their signature pork chop curry fried rice topped with a sunny-side-up egg.

Joining the dining scene this year are new establishments like Jean Pierre (9 Bridges Street), a decadent French bistro known for its solid classics, great ambience, and attentive hospitality. Don't miss their cornichon martinis, steak tartare, onion soup, and poulet de Simone. Next door, Salon de Refuses (9 Bridges Street) offers a Mediterranean menu complemented by grower champagnes, boutique sparkling wines and lesser known gems to discover, which pair perfectly with their seafood dishes.

For a nightcap, head to some of Hong Kong's finest cocktail bars. Be prepared for long queues at Bar Leone (11 to 15 Bridges Street), the World's 50 Best Bar in 2025. Arrive early or be ready to wait. Alternatively, visit Montana (108 Hollywood Road), a bar dedicated to the golden age of Cuban cocktails, exuding a hedonistic 1970s Miami vibe. Opened this year, it is the brainchild of Lorenzo Antinori and Simone Caporale (from Sips, ranked #2 in the 2024 World's 50 Best Bars), promising a fun, rum-soaked experience.

You won’t miss the cheerful yellow door of Mrs H's Coffee House (140 Hollywood Road). This quaint cafe serves coffee and pastries, transforming into a speakeasy after 6pm, featuring The Holywell's British-inspired cocktails. The interiors evoke a traditional English home, while the whimsical cocktail menu pays homage to children's literature. I recommend trying the Full English, a breakfast-themed Bloody Mary, or one of their creative twists on classic cocktails.

TREASURE HUNTING: UNIQUE FINDS IN SHEUNG WAN

After exploring Cat Street for vintage knick-knacks and souvenirs, head to Tai Ping Shan to browse the local boutiques. Yee Hand (38 Sai Street) is a fantastic secondhand shop where you might stumble upon vintage Chanel accessories and Issey Miyake's Pleats Please. Still, it's all about luck as their consignment stock varies. 

Another highlight is the boutique of Hong Kong-based British designer Emma Wallace in Po Hing Mansion (2 to 6 Wa Ning Lane), known for her bold prints and flattering cuts. The boutique has been a favourite for over a decade. 

Squarestreet (15 Square Street), founded by a Swedish designer, offers a beautifully curated selection of Nordic design and fashion. This café/retail store is tucked away in the “Poho” area, close to Tai Ping Shan. For a unique coffee experience combined with art and architecture, stop by Commaa (11 Po Yan Street), an extension of the LAAB Pro design studio, which specialises in designing public spaces, including architecture, interiors, and art installations.

Tea enthusiasts should not miss Yuan Yuan Tang (4 Tai Ping Shan Street), where premium loose-leaf teas and elegant teaware are available. They specialise in aged Pu-er tea, some of which range from 25 to 70 years old, and also conduct tea workshops. Take a break and enjoy a pot of tea in the tranquil atmosphere – a welcome respite from shopping.

A personal favourite for stocking up on tea is Fukien Tea Co (6 Mercer Street). Run by Yueng Sifu and his son, this family business has over a century of history as the senior Yeung took over from his father. If you speak Cantonese, sit down for tea and chat with Yeung Sifu. Their curated selection includes aged pu-erh, oolong, and jasmine blends, along with some teaware for purchase; however, most customers come primarily for the tea and the opportunity for conversation.

For booklovers with children, Rebooked (9 to 11 Mee Lun Street) is a non-profit secondhand bookstore for children, which stocks everything from board books to young adult fiction in mint condition. You can browse online, pick up your orders in-store, and continue shopping afterwards.

The Sheung Wan neighbourhood is a street canvas, peppered with vibrant street art and colourful murals from the main street to alleyways. Keep an eye out and have a wander, as unexpected artworks might greet you.

Finally, if your feet need some relaxation, consider a traditional Chinese foot massage at Superior Health Care (8 Cleverly Street) for HK$280 (S$47) per hour. Right across the street, Kam Lee Steel Product & Engineering offers a wide selection of professional-grade steel kitchenware, including pots, steamers, ladles, and baking ware – perfect for your last stop before concluding your Sheung Wan adventure.