JB food guide: Railway-themed briyani and seafront treats in Stulang Laut

Beyond the late-night Ramly burgers and the usual haunts popular with Singaporeans, the Johor Bahru food scene has always felt like undiscovered territory to me. But even a novice knows for the best food finds, you go where the locals eat. Enter my colleague from Mediacorp Oli 968, RJ Vimala, who invited me to meet her a short eight-minute drive from the Causeway in Stulang Laut. Literally, a suburb by the sea with clear views of Singapore across the Johor Strait.

As a lauded cooking show host and veteran broadcaster who has traded recipes with MasterChef judges, Vimala’s palate is as formidable as her radio presence. When she makes a recommendation, you listen. First stop on our culinary adventure: Railway Briyani Station.

True to its name, the casual, award-winning eatery recreates the vibrant, nostalgic atmosphere of a South Indian railway station. From the auto rickshaw parked at the entrance, to the authentic signage, to the steamy clatter of chai being pulled at a “tea stall”, to the cashier counter masquerading as a ticketing booth, to a “police post” complete with jail, the restaurant was delightfully kitsch.

Inspired by memories of his first train journey that turned into a 20-day sojourn in Tamil Nadu, co-owner Dineshraj R Subramaniam, 39, wanted diners to enjoy that same immersive experience with their food. Eager to get on the fast track to flavour, I let Vimala take the conductor’s seat – she briskly took charge of the menu and mapped out our meal.

Keeping with tradition, we ate with our hands. Generous portions of food were served directly onto banana leaves, which released a subtle, earthy fragrance, enhancing my tactile encounter with tawa chicken briyani (RM25.90/US$6.40).

Even before entering the main dining area, mouth-watering aromas had beckoned from a rustic shed outside, where other meats like mutton, prawn, crab and Vanjaram Fry (fried seer fish steaks) sizzled on large, circular cast-iron griddles, or tawa.

“When I went to Marina Beach in Chennai, I saw tawa prawn and fish being sold along the beach. So I took that idea and brought it here,” Dineshraj added.

Sampling his best-selling version of briyani was a first for me. The chicken had been marinated in aromatic spices and shallow-fried in a tawa for a deeply burnished yet succulent finish. Cooked separately, the spiced basmati rice was a fluffy, flavourful foil to the fried chicken and accompanying hardboiled egg.

I tucked in with gusto under the watchful standee eyes of Kollywood superstars Rajinikanth, Thalapathy Vijay, Ajith Kumar and Vadivelu. Dineshraj explained his decorative choices. “For Indians, cinema is one of the most important things in life, so fans get excited once they see their heroes,” he said. 

But for Vimala, the real hero was her meen kulambu (fish curry) tookuchatti set with white rice, two vegetable dishes of the day and pickles (RM11.90). I had to agree. The complexity of flavours and textures belied its humble origins. Tookuchatti refers to a South Indian vessel, similar to a tingkat, used for carrying food.

“Like when farmers go out to work, they'll bring their tookuchatti. They’ll bring food from home in a bucket. Usually, it's yoghurt rice or leftover curry with rice on the bottom layer. On the top layer, they'll have vegetables,” she elaborated. “Mixed together, it's really yummy.”

This was another first for me, earning full marks for presentation. The tookuchatti was theatrically twisted to mix the tangy curry-drenched rice, then emptied onto Vimala’s banana leaf. Its effective design features an internal tier to keep the “dry” veggies separate. That way, the Gobi Manchurian (batter-fried cauliflower) remained crispy and stewed pumpkin stayed intact.

We also shared two classic South Indian sides. The Prawn 65 (RM17.90) – a seafood riff on the chicken original created in 1965 at Chennai’s landmark Buhari Hotel – arrived garnished with fried curry leaves and smelled incredible. Ginger, garlic, chilli powder, turmeric and cumin mingled piquantly on large prawns, which were battered such that they could be eaten whole – heads, shells, and all.

We also enjoyed the egg podimas (RM3.90), a traditional dry, stir-fried dish fragranced with spices, onion and fresh green chillies. Scrambled into savoury crumbles, this mild, eggy version was a light companion to our heavier mains.

For even more textural dimension, Vimala shared her top tip: folding crushed appalam into our rice. The fragments of the wafer-thin lentil crackers crunched delicately against the tender grains.

Then, the contents of a single green sachet transformed our meal. Who knew simple mango pickle could be such a revelation? Tart, salty, and designed to wake the tastebuds, the flavours hit with the intensity of a bullet train. We welcomed the sharp acidity as it cut through the rich fish curry perfectly. I had to look it up – the mango pickle is made by Pandian Foods, based in Madurai, Tamil Nadu. This magical condiment is an absolute must.

Fellow hot-heads will revel masochistically in the potent heat of mor milagai – whole chillies soaked in salted buttermilk, sun-dried, and then flash-fried. They were an essential, palate-shocking condiment, delivering a complex kick that was simultaneously crispy, zingy and smoky.

To extinguish the fire, Vimala chose a cold, salted mooru (buttermilk drink RM7), which she described as the "sister of lassi", a diluted and refreshing version of the yoghurt–based beverage. “Mixed in the buttermilk are spices like mustard seed, chillies, curry leaves and cumin. It's highly probiotic, so it's really good for your digestion.”

Unbothered by the heat, I opted for the signature cutting tea (RM5.60) – a half-serving, or "cut” portion, of frothy chai. Pulled for aeration like a classic teh tarik, the strong, sweet brew tasted like a hot, creamy dessert in a shot glass.

But if it’s an icy-cold finish you’re after, head to Jom Cha by Farm Fresh. Located just a minute’s walk away in an eye-catching red barn, this outlet serves signature soft-serve ice cream (RM5.80) made with fresh milk from one of Malaysia’s leading dairy producers. We topped our swirls with brown sugar boba and mango crystal boba (RM1.50 each) for an extra pop of flavour. Other menu options included bubble milk teas, iced coffee concoctions and fruity yoghurt drinks.

Also, a stone’s throw away were other eateries like Old Fisherman Restaurant, known for its heritage-recipe seafood soup, and arguably the most picturesque fast-food restaurant in JB – the two-storey KFC boasting panoramic sea views through floor-to-ceiling glass windows and an outdoor deck built directly over the water. Tempting possibilities, but we had truly run out of steam.

We choose to rest our bursting bellies in Jom Cha’s tranquil, cow-themed garden, looking out at the Singapore skyline. With a final thanks to Vimala for welcoming me aboard the day's itinerary of recommendations, my mind returned to Railway Briyani Station. The theme might suggest a gimmick, but the quality of the menu delivers a substance that more than matches the style. Though it only opened 20 months ago, it has already cemented itself as a favourite in the community.

“They love the environment because they feel like they are in Chennai once they enter. All of our ingredients – tea, coffee powder, spices, everything – come from Chennai,” Dineshraj said. “And I travel there regularly to visit relatives and my grandmother.”

A fittingly delicious tribute to family and the importance of staying connected to one’s roots. So next time you’re in the area, choo-choo-choose Railway Briyani Station for a one-of-a-kind JB dining experience.

Railway Briyani Station is located at Vantage Bay Lot 6376 & 9236, Jalan Ibrahim Sultan, Stulang Laut, 80300 Johor Bahru, Johor Darul Ta'zim, Malaysia. It's open from 11am to 8pm, closed on Mondays.

Jom Cha by Farm Fresh is located at Lot 24076, Jalan Ibrahim Sultan, Stulang Laut, 80300 Johor Bahru, Johor Darul Ta'zim, Malaysia. It's open daily from 9.30am to 10pm.

Catch Makan Kakis with Denise Tan every Thursday from 11am on Mediacorp Gold 905.