Cult Japanese fashion label 45R at Paragon reopens with a bigger Ai indigo collection

Cult Japanese indie fashion brand 45R reopened at Paragon Shopping Mall with a bigger and brand new concept store that is a blend of modern finishes and traditional Japanese aesthetics, from hand-carved Naguri shelves to a bamboo wall crafted from bamboo sourced from the Kyoto prefecture.

Not altogether new to the Singaporean market, the brand first opened at Capitol Piazza in 2015 before relocating to Paragon Shopping Mall in 2018.

The reopened 170sqm concept store stocks the brand's total collection including the men's, women's and unisex lines.

Although mass market appeal has never been what the apparel maker is about, that didn’t stop GQ magazine from hailing it as one of the 100 Best Stores In The World to shop at.

Their wares that run the gamut of deceptively simple designs executed in figure-flattering fit and outstanding craftsmanship have attracted a steady stream of style enthusiasts.

Averse to in-the-face marketing and not one to partake in flash in the pan trends, what makes the brand appealing to this small but fiercely loyal fan base?

MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE

The label is built on slow fashion, quality that lasts and utilitarian designs that one can wear forever, and it goes about it all with the utmost dedication, turning the making of apparel into a craft.

Its “materials first’ approach, in which it sources for raw materials and makes all its fabrics in-house, and then uses them as the guiding point to each of its designs is particularly alluring for sartorial purists. If and when any part of the production process has to be outsourced, 45R only works with the best experts and is involved in every step along the way.

While the label’s aesthetic is simple and understated, the silhouettes bear a distinct Japanese vibe – its signature casual cool cuts typically come in a relaxed, loose-fit cut that bears a touch of bohemian- and vintage-inspired.

Fashion trends may not be what 45R is centred on, but they play a role in the creative direction of the brand, said the label’s co-founder and head designer, Yasumi Inoue.

“While our fundamental approach to clothing hasn’t changed since the brand's inception, I incorporate trends in aspects like sizing, colour, patterns and styling.”

She also added that the brand aims to make clothes that can be worn by people of all ages, regardless of gender. Indeed, a good portion of its garments, such as the jeans, sweatshirts, shirts and tees, are made to be unisex.

“These are based on men’s clothing patterns, which are traditional and rooted in Ivy League style. This traditional foundation resonates well with both men and women, which is why it’s well received by all customers,” explained Inoue.

THE ART OF MAKING DENIM

Denim and indigo dyeing are two big specialties of the brand – a fabric and treatment process that go hand in hand.

“Our denim is unique because it’s crafted from original cotton raw materials, with careful attention to the texture of the yarn. The indigo dye (or ai dye) used is also proprietary, resulting in a range of 34 distinctive colours. These include vintage shades inspired by traditional Japanese workwear, creating a collection of hues that are unique to 45R,” shared Inoue.

The brand works with the last remaining ai masters in Japan, who perform the dyeing work by hand in the traditional way, and with natural ai dye that is plant-derived.

Instead of dyeing the garment, the ai masters dye the yarn to be woven into fabric in a long, laborious and complex method – from harvesting the plant, which has to be fermented before use, to preparing the dye, which needs to be carefully mixed with other key ingredients – in order to achieve fabric in the desired rich, dark-blue hue.

This is the level of commitment that 45R believes in – traditional Japanese techniques that demand time, effort and exceptional skill, but produce the kind of garments that can be worn and appreciated for a long time to come.

Besides indigo dyeing, block printing and silk screening are some other artisanal techniques that are used in 45R’s collections.

EVERLASTING QUALITY

It’s not hard to see why it can take up to a year for Inoue and her team to realise and produce a collection and why they don’t come cheap – most T-shirts start from S$100, while the jeans start from S$1,000.

The brand’s ethos of mindful, “slow” fashion extends to also providing services that help customers maintain the garments and keep them wearable for as long as possible.

The brand established Manzoku-kobo Atelier 12 years ago as a team that specialises in remaking customers’ 45R clothing – today, the services available have been expanded to include general alterations, repairs and even laundry services.

Especially in the age of disposable fast fashion, 45R’s clothing have been likened to heirloom pieces that are handed down from one generation of its customers to the next, according to Inoue.

“As 45R celebrates its 47th anniversary, it’s not uncommon for daughters to request size adjustments for garments passed down from their mothers,” she revealed.

Now this is truly testament to the quality and timelessness of the brand.