Has Japanese skincare lost its shine? These new innovations from J-beauty icons are bringing back the sparkle

The Japanese way of things, so gentle, so Zen, with its focus on being in the moment and the sensorial experience, has been overshadowed by the Korean wave, at least when it comes to skincare and beauty.

For the past decade or so, with the advent of agile and exciting Korean beauty brands fuelled by the raging popularity of Korean pop culture, J-beauty appears to have taken a back seat. 

But make no mistake, Japanese beauty brands, who set the OG benchmark for cutting-edge skincare innovations, never went away, and have continued to quietly push the envelope and capture the hearts and dollars of loyal consumers worldwide. As the demand for Korean beauty levels out, has the time come for the delicate yet powerful world of Japanese skincare to shine once again?But first, a look at the milestones and hallmarks that have catapulted the cult of Japanese beauty to an international audience.
 

THE PIONEERS AND POWERHOUSES OF JAPANESE SKINCARE

Several brands have played a vital role in shaping the landscape of Japanese skincare. Shiseido, established in 1872 in Ginza, is hailed as one of the oldest cosmetics companies in the world, and has continually pushed boundaries over the decades with product innovations and breakthrough research.

It remains a behemoth in the beauty industry, owning dozens of prestige brands, from Japanese labels such as Cle de Peau Beaute and Issey Miyake to international brands like Drunk Elephant and Dr Dennis Gross.

Another storied Japanese name is Shu Uemura. Founded in 1967 by make-up artist Shu Uemura, it gave the world the iconic cleansing oil, which combined botanical oils with cutting-edge technology which targeted different skin concerns, and introduced make-up collections steeped in Japanese artistry.

Of course, there was also SK-II, which famously developed cult fave products based on the fermentation process used in the production of sake. These pioneers didn't just create products; they crafted legacies that continue to lay benchmarks for the industry.

BRIDGING TRADITIONS WITH TECHNOLOGY

Japan is synonymous with technological innovation, and its skincare industry is no different. For Japanese brands, fusing the wisdom of their country’s age-old traditions with cutting-edge scientific technology comes naturally.

Brands like Shiseido, Kanebo, and SK-II have always been at the forefront, experimenting with novel ingredients and pioneering formulas. From harnessing the power of natural ingredients, often unique to Japan, such as matcha, sake, rice bran oil and sakura leaf extract, then revolutionalising the way these active ingredients are delivered to skin, Japanese beauty brands have also led the way in nano-technology and encapsulation.

But even while innovation and technology seem built into Japanese skincare, the idea of traditional and mindful Japanese beauty rituals also has deep roots. This sense of rich history and ancient traditions melded with ultra-modern scientific advancements is one of the undeniable charms of Japanese beauty.

THE LEGACY OF ESSENTIALS

Cleansing, moisturising and protection aren’t just fundamental in Japanese skincare; they form the foundation of a heritage that's been passed down through generations. One significant aspect of this routine is double cleansing, a method that first removes makeup and then cleanses the skin, a technique that's now embraced globally.

Some say double cleansing was passed down from Japanese geishas, who needed to remove their thick, white oil-based makeup by massaging botanical oil into their skin, before rinsing it away and completing the routine with a foaming cleanser.

Another skincare step pioneered by the Japanese is that of UV protection. Long before it became a mainstream concern, Japanese women were shielding their skin against the sun’s damaging rays by incorporating sunblock into their skincare regimens. Japanese skincare companies still make some of the world’s most popular sunscreens.

THE INNOVATIONS OF J-BEAUTY

Many of the beauty rituals and products we love today were developed by the Japanese. Innovations such as the double-cleansing method, skincare essence, layering (using toner, lotion and essence in that order to allow for maximum absorption of products) and high SPF sunscreens are now widely adopted and revered by beauty aficionados.

The philosophy of gentle hydration, consistently building skin resilience over time, and nurturing the skin’s natural barrier were, and still are, quintessential elements of J-Beauty.

By pioneering advances in the use of ingredients like hyaluronic acid (such as Hada Labo and its Super Hyaluronic Acid, a blend of three hyaluronic acids to hydrate skin) and ceramides (Kao developed its Curel brand for dry and sensitive skin using the breakthrough findings of its ceramide research), Japanese companies have influenced modern skincare, setting new standards and inspirations for brands worldwide.

THE ROAD AHEAD 

The rising popularity of Korean beauty brands, some of whom share J-beauty’s tenets of traditional rituals blended with technological innovation (often with more enticing and trendy products and packaging), is a chance for Japanese beauty brands to up the ante.

Commitment to innovation, quality and efficacy, and the reinvention of age-old traditions to cater to the contemporary consumer, while retaining the essence of what makes them distinctly Japanese – this is how J-beauty can reclaim its crown.

Here are some brands that are leading the pack with innovative new products.  

KOSE SEKKISEI Skincare UV Essence Milk, S$37
 

This skincare brand serves up ancient Asian herbal remedies fused with scientific research at affordable prices, and has recently reformulated one of its suncare heroes, making it even more impressive. The new Essence Milk has a super waterproof formula, three types of Job’s Tears to enhance skin moisture and clarity, and uses Stretch Veil technology – a well-balanced blend of two polymers – to create a sunscreen that is strong, yet adheres flexibly to the skin, preventing smudging even as skin moves. 

Available at https://www.kose.com.sg/

SK-II Signature Brightening Series, from S$133

The allure of SK-II endures, with their latest brightening collection solidifying their position as leaders in bestowing radiant, translucent complexions. The GenOptics Ultraura Essence is the result of more than 26 years of extensive breakthrough research in the skin brightening field, and features SK-II’s signature PITERA ingredient. The new Atmosphere Airy Light UV Cream SPF50+/PA++++ is a lightweight sun protection that shields against photo-ageing and prevents spots, dullness, and rough skin texture.

Available at https://www.sk-ii.com.sg/

SUQQU Protecting Day Cream SPF50+, S$81.70

Perhaps what can get people most excited about Japanese skincare again is fresh brands that have yet to become too mainstream. While SUQQU isn’t a new beauty brand, having made its debut in 2003, the cult makeup and skincare label remains available only in a few countries outside of Japan, and has been called Japan’s best-kept beauty secret. Beauty insiders rave about their skincare, especially the sunscreens, and the Protecting Day Cream SPF50+ features three types of UV scatterers to provide high UV protection with a comfortable feel and a glowy finish, and boasts skin barrier effects and long-lasting moisture. 

Available at https://www.suqqu.com/en/

Cle de Peau Beaute Eye Contour Cream Supreme, S$360

The ultra-luxe Japanese skincare label’s latest triumph is an eye cream with Lempuyang Extract, a powerful ingredient that’s five times more concentrated than in previous formulas, to combat eye contour changes and maximise actin fiber production. Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract targets colour changes around the eye area and brightens the complexion. It’s backed by pioneering research into the skin’s structural pillars, and based on the concept of regenerative medicine, to help address signs of ageing before they even appear.

Available at https://www.cledepeau-beaute.com/sg/