How to safely use retinol for youthful skin: Tips and recommendations
The gold standard in anti-ageing, retinol is a well-loved skincare ingredient by many, including doctors. But why does it have such a bad rap? We ask the skin experts to shed light on this potent ingredient, how to navigate it and if the alternatives are just as effective.
How to use retinol safely. (Art: Chern Ling, photos: iStock, Laneige, Fresh, Supergoop and AHC)
When it comes to dealing with the signs of ageing, retinol is one ingredient that reigns supreme. However, it also has had a bad rap, often being associated with skin woes such as dryness, flaking and purging. But today, there is a slew of new retinol options, including plant-derived alternatives, that promises to be less harsh on the skin.
WHAT IS RETINOL?
“Retinol is a dermatologist-recommended and gentler form of Vitamin A that is generally well-tolerated by most skin types. It is an antioxidant that helps prevent free radical damage and stimulates collagen and elastin production, which can reduce visible signs of skin ageing,” explained Dr Angeline Yong, consultant dermatologist with Angeline Yong Dermatology.
ARE ALL RETINOL MADE EQUAL?
You might have heard of retinol, retinoid, retinal and retinoic acid. So what is the difference?
According to Dr Melvin Tan, medical director of Epion Clinic, retinoids describe the entire range of Vitamin A derivatives, which includes retinol, retin-A and retinal.
Retinol is the gentlest form of Vitamin A and is widely available in over-the-counter skincare products. “It is the slowest acting, least potent derivative and is associated with the least sensitivity," said Dr Tan.
On the other end of the spectrum, there’s retin-A, which comes in a variety of strengths and is only available via a doctor’s prescription. “It has been known to cause skin irritation and as a result, not commonly found in skincare and is the least popular,” Dr Tan added.
In between the two, is retinal, which is less potent than retin-A, but more potent than retinol.
Retinol speeds up the process of cell turnover in the skin.
WHAT IS THE GOLD STANDARD IN ANTI-AGEING?
Best used in addressing the signs of ageing, retinol exfoliates the skin, increases collagen and elastin production and stops enzymes that digest collagen, which will help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, giving your skin a fresher, plump appearance, explained Dr Yong.
At the same time, it can also help refine skin texture and reduce the appearance of pigmentation and an uneven skin tone.
But that’s not all. It can also be used to treat acne as it’s able to unclog pores and clear the skin, which in turn help prevent further breakouts from occurring. Plus, “it amplifies the effects of other medicated creams and gels, giving you the maximum benefits of the treatments that you might be using,” Dr Yong added.
While retinol can benefit many skin types, ages and conditions, those with sensitive skin and skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea should either avoid using it or use it sparingly, said Dr Yong. However, pregnant women or breastfeeding mums should avoid it completely as “it can be harmful to the developing foetus or infant”.
One of the biggest retinol use complaint, skin purging is when blemishes that were previously hidden beneath the surface are brought to the surface, resulting in an initial breakout.
This happens because “retinol speeds up the process of cell turnover in the skin. As a result, any underlying clogged pores or acne may come to the surface more quickly, leading to a temporary increase in breakouts,” explained Dr Yong.
The increased skin exfoliation and cell turnover can also lead to dryness, sensitivity, flaking and peeling as well, said Dr Tan.
Sadly, while this side effect doesn’t happen to everyone, it’s not completely preventable, said Dr Yong. But there are simple ways to lessen its severity, like using a cleanser that contains salicylic acid alongside your retinol product to minimise the risk of skin purging and reduce the severity of breakouts.
Fortunately, it’s temporary. “Skin purging usually lasts for about four to six weeks, so it’s important to be patient and give your skin time to adjust. Avoid the temptation to stop using retinol altogether or increase its use too quickly, as this can worsen the purging,” said Dr Yong.
ARE PLANT-DERIVED RETINOL OPTIONS AS EFFECTIVE?
The good news? There are other gentler retinol alternatives that’s said to be suitable for even the most sensitive of skins.
These plant-derived retinols come from plants rich in Vitamin A, with popular ones being bakuchiol, carrot-seed oil and rosehip oil.
These retinol alternatives have been found to mimic the effects of retinol, such as speeding up cell turnover, supporting elastin and collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and plumping the skin. More importantly, they do it without the downsides of traditional retinol use.
Out of the plant-derived retinol options, “bakuchiol is probably the most well-known and there was a small study published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019 that found it comparable to retinol in combating photo-ageing and better tolerated”, shared Dr Tan.
With a low risk of irritation, it seems that these gentler retinol alternatives are the answer for reactive skins.
In fact, Dr Yong recommended that those with sensitive skin, especially if you’ve had issues with retinol or retinoids, or those with a history of facial dermatitis or even rosacea, to consider these gentler retinol alternatives instead. However, at the efficacy of plant-derived retinol options will not match that of prescription level retinoids, she added.
HOW TO USE RETINOL SAFELY
To minimise the redness, dryness, flaking and itchiness that retinol might bring about, here’s what you can do when you’re just starting out:
1. Start slow
Begin by using retinol once or twice a week. Then increase its frequency to alternate days or daily. This allows your skin time to build up tolerance.
2. Start low
Start with a low concentration of retinol and on the more resilient parts of the face, like the T-zone area, before introducing the product to more sensitive areas, such as the under-eye area and cheeks.
3. Ensure skin is well-hydrated
Minimise skin dryness by trying the half-and-half method – mixing equal amounts of retinol and moisturiser. While it does reduce the potency, it allows your skin to get used to the ingredient, especially if you’re new to retinol.
Alternatively, sandwich your retinol between a layer of hyaluronic acid serum prior and a moisturiser after to reduce the risk of irritation.
4. Keep retinol for night-time use
Retinol can make the skin more photo-sensitive so keep it for your night-time skincare routine.
5. Use sunscreen in the day
With increased photo-sensitivity, sunscreen (at least SPF30) is a must to protect your skin from sun damage.
6. Keep your skincare routine simple
As retinol can be harsh, avoid using other skincare products with similarly harsh actives in the same skincare routine. For instance, skip AHA or BHA before your retinol as this could potentially increase the risk of irritation when stacked together. Instead, keep your AHA for day and retinol for night.
These are some beginner-friendly retinol products to try:
1. Supergoop Daily Dose Bioretinol + Mineral SPF40/PA+++, S$76
A combination of bakuchiol and mineral SPF to reduce signs of ageing while protecting the skin against UV damage and free radicals. With time, skin is smoother, brighter and healthier.
Available at https://www.sephora.sg/.
2. AHC Youth Focus Intensive Night Capsule Serum, S$79.90
Repair and restore skin’s health and youth while you sleep with this intensive night serum. Each capsule contains the brand’s iconic PRO Retinal 11X to address signs of ageing from fine lines and wrinkles to skin sagging and age spots.
Available at Watsons and official AHC stores on Lazada.sg and Shopee.sg
3. Drunk Elephant A-Shaba Complex Eye Serum, S$98
Infused with pure vegan retinol, caffeine and copper peptides, this multitasking eye care works hard to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and puffiness while encouraging collagen production for brighter and firmer peepers.
Available at https://www.sephora.sg/.
4. Laneige Perfect Renew 3X Cream, S$103
A skin renewing moisturiser that’s enriched with not one, but three different anti-ageing serums – RE.D flavonoid, peptides and retinol, to reduce wrinkles, promote skin firmness and boost radiance in one easy application.
Available at www.sg.laneige.com
5. Fresh Black Tea Advanced Age Renewal, S$164
Featuring a unique BT Matrix – a blend of black tea and rambutan leaf extracts, this nourishing cream delivers a retinol-like result to visibly reduce wrinkles while improving skin’s firmness and elasticity, to restore skin’s health and youthful glow.
Available at www.fresh.com/sg/home.
6. Augustinus Bader The Retinol Serum, S$530
The use of pure retinol, which is efficiently converted into retinoic acid, alongside the brand’s proprietary TFC8 technology, work to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, blemishes and pigmentation for a youthful complexion. Best bit? It does so without discomfort or redness, making it suitable for all skin types.
Available at https://www.sephora.sg/.
