How to build a watch collection you won't regret: 6 essential words of advice from aficionados

How to build a watch collection you won't regret? It’s safe to say that anyone with an interest in horology will rarely find themselves satisfied with owning just one or two watches. In fact, the deeper one ventures into appreciating watches, the bigger one’s collection is inclined to grow.

But a good timepiece collection isn’t measured by its size, variety or how much it costs – ask those who make a hobby out of gathering watches and you’re likely to get wide-ranging thoughts on what truly matters to them when deciding which piece to go for.

Perhaps you’re thinking about making your first serious watch purchase, or feel tempted to add a new model or two to the one you already own. Want to know what to look out for and how to grow your watch wardrobe?

CNA Lifestyle asked four card-carrying watch enthusiasts and seasoned collectors for their opinions and experiences – why not let what they have to share be your reference point?

1. LET WHAT YOU LIKE BE YOUR GUIDE

Even if budget isn’t so much a concern, most people would prefer to approach collecting with thought and some form of purpose, whether it be to build a varied collection or to go for specific types of watches.

Watch enthusiast Kwok Kin Fei has always thought of watch collecting as a personal endeavour, in which one’s choices are completely individual and a reflection of his or her taste and style with no right or wrong answers.

“I approach it from two ‘circles’ – the first being the circle of appreciation. Hence, the first question a beginner should ask is ‘does it appeal to me’? Discard the ‘practical’ considerations and, instead, focus on selecting a timepiece that means the most to you (or in the words of Marie Kondo – what sparks joy). This will naturally dictate the collection that one seeks to procure, whether is it from a love for a particular watch style, movement, finishing, a certain stylistic era of timepieces or even to collate a ‘starter kit’ of watches from different brands,” he shared.

Kwok said that it’s only after this foundation is built that the second “circle” – one of learning – comes into play. “Learning can come in different forms. It may be a technical understanding of complications, historic significance, artistic appreciation of specific crafts in watchmaking, or simply to immerse yourself in a horological discussion with friends.”

2. ALLOW YOUR TASTES TIME TO DEVELOP

Kwok also noted that many beginner collectors start off being afraid to make “mistakes” or thinking that collecting is a linear journey. “In reality, we often backtrack on our initial assumptions and then work to continue refining our collection. Don’t give yourself too much pressure to get it right from the start,” he said.

On the other hand, some people may rush into a purchase, either because of the popularity or scarcity of a model, perhaps, or simply because of a compulsion to amass more watches quickly.

Tom Chng, founder of Singapore Watch Club, reckons that watch collecting should be a journey to learn more about oneself. “It is highly personal, and it is important to know that you don’t yet fully know yourself. A watch collection is a work-in-progress because that’s exactly what we are. A timepiece is a highly sentimental object, so take the time to understand how it works, and learn about the little quirks that make each of them unique. Be prepared that your taste is also constantly changing. I’d encourage those new to the hobby to err on the side of timelessness. Trends will come and go, but classics stand the test of time,” he advised.

3. READ UP FROM ALL SOURCES

Needless to say, the world of horology can be complicated, so to speak, which means learning about the workings and mechanisms is part and parcel of a collector’s journey and essential to a wider appreciation of fine timepieces.

Sugiharto Kusumadi, another watch aficionado who also owns watch boutique Watch Wonderland, thinks that reading up is the easiest way for a beginner to accomplish this, for a start. “Learn about the key words and terms – the watch lingo, and then go deeper with the histories, of watches and the brands. Read, read and read. Then once you’ve read enough, mingle with the other collectors and learn from them and their collections,” he suggested.

There are plenty of watch resources online and on social media, of course, on which you can connect with other watch fanatics and engage in discussions about horology. Doing so will often open doors to knowledge you may not find in typical articles about watches. 

4. CONSIDER STARTING SMALL

There are those who go straight for the big-name brands – that’s not wrong, and entirely a personal preference, but not necessarily the only way to go. It might be a wise choice to start with more affordable watches if you’re a beginner – that money you don’t spend now can go towards bigger purchases down the road as your tastes refine and develop.

Collector William Tee agreed that there are many worthy brands to look out for in the affordable category. “The Tissot PRX available in both quartz and mechanical variations are great value at the thousand-dollar price range. Seiko and Grand Seiko both produce a large collection of watches for any budget ranging from fun daily ‘wearers’, cult classics like the Tuna, all the way to high-end variations of the Grand Seiko that give Swiss-made watches a serious run for their money,” he said, quoting some examples.

One might even find interesting models to acquire, he pointed out, from brands like Casio – loved by many for its G-Shock; or Swatch, which recently made news with its amazingly well-received Moonswatch collaboration with Omega.

At the same time, it’s not difficult to understand the allure of owning a piece from a big-name brand. If you’ve got your eye on one but aren’t yet ready to splurge on a big purchase, why not start with a basic model from its line-up? “Entry-level models of big brands are a great way to learn more about a brand’s heritage and values. Be careful though, they tend to be a gateway down the rabbit hole to bigger watches!” quipped Chng.

5. LOOK BEYOND THE POPULAR MODELS

When buying a watch from a well-known brand, many people tend to go straight for its most popular models. Recognisability, undeniably, contributes to the desirability of a watch – particularly in the case of high-end, luxury timepieces – but that doesn’t mean it is the sole factor that one should base a choice on.

Limited-edition watches, too, often get more attention, since they are assumed to be sought-after because of the small numbers they are produced in. Are they considered to be more collectible then?

Not necessarily, said Chng, who thinks that this really depends on the type of watches one likes. “Limited-edition and brand-signature models are definitely more popular, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re better watches. Market demand is merely a small factor of consideration. I find it more meaningful to train one’s eye to spot exceptional traits and qualities about a timepiece, even if they’re appreciated just by yourself. It’s also more exciting to look out for ‘sleepers’, simply because they’re more quirky and fun,” he added, affirming his opinion that one should always choose what speaks to him or her. 

6. THE ONLY RULE – THERE ARE NO RULES

Many beginners ask if there are some essential types of watches that are considered to be must-haves in every collection. To Kwok, the only essential type of watch is a watch that you will wear. “The style and complication are secondary, so I will not recommend a must-have function,” he said.

Tee, however, thinks that a good watch collection is one with a story and a central theme. “When we first start out, we want to try it all and buy everything that catches our eye. But as time goes by, you realise that your bank balance is not infinite and you only have two wrists, so you end up gravitating towards a certain type or brand or theme. Ultimately, there are no rules and a good watch collection is very personal to the individual. This is the joy of watch collecting,” he shared.