How Malaysian label Anaabu uses traditional Malay and Chinese elements to redefine minimalist fashion

As a Malaysian homegrown fashion brand, Anaabu takes cues from heritage wear and has successfully made these part of its unique DNA. What stands out about the label is how it has done so in unexpected contemporary ways – fusing elements of traditional cultural wear with its signature simple, clean and relaxed aesthetic.

It’s not just Malay traditional clothing that the brand references – the Kuala Lumpur-based brand has also recently looked to Chinese-style garments for its latest collection, Kongsi Masa (which means "shared time"), a release made for Chinese New Year as well as the upcoming Eid festivities.

“We wanted to celebrate the beauty of traditions – Malay, Chinese and beyond – while offering a collection that feels inclusive, timeless and meaningful to a diverse audience," explained its founder, Ana Abu.

"It marks the first time we’ve intentionally incorporated elements from Chinese traditional wear into our designs. The idea was to explore the shared cultural values of time, togetherness and heritage across different communities – as a brand, we’ve always been inspired by the rich cultural narratives that shape our society,”

Considering that Chinese New Year and Eid are just separated by mere months this year, it does make good sense to create a special range that combined influences from both Malay and Chinese cultures. While the pieces are ideal as festive wear, Ana Abu also made sure that they are effortlessly wearable beyond the celebrations.

The collection, which consists of designs for both women and men, fuses baju kurung, sarong and kebaya silhouettes with details like Chinese knot buttons and mandarin collars.

Much of these have relaxed, boxy cuts, and are made with checked and striped fabrics in linen and cotton that have a laid-back feel and contemporary edge. They also look comfortable to wear – unlike traditional Malay and Chinese festive wear, which typically have a fitted shape and are crafted from fabrics like satin and brocade.

Wearability is an important feature of Anaabu’s styles, said Ana Abu. This is why the brand embraces a palette of earthy, muted colours, as well as simple silhouettes that are easy to wear. “We are known for a soft androgyny and our minimalist approach. With collections for men and women, as well as genderless designs, Anaabu aims to offer styling versatility while honouring tradition by reviving classic designs in modern ways,” said Ana Abu.

FROM ENGINEER TO ENTREPRENEUR

The former civil engineer, now 37, started the brand in 2010 with no formal background in fashion except for a personal interest in it and a passion for thrifting clothing.

“Back then, I was curating and styling second-hand pieces, uploading them onto my online blog shop. To my surprise, it gained traction, and I even incorporated pieces from my mother’s wardrobe into the collection,” she shared.

She spent her weekends participating in local markets and bazaars, where she connected with like-minded creatives and expanded her fashion network.

“This experience deepened my love for fashion and ultimately led me to pursue it full-time. In 2012, I made the decision to leave engineering and open my own shop. Over time, Anaabu evolved, and I began learning the fundamentals of design from those around me. By 2015, we officially rebranded Anaabu by creating my own designs and launched our first collection,” said Ana Abu.

She considers her journey into the fashion business unconventional. “I picked up skills through hands-on experience, learning from pattern makers, artisans and industry professionals. Over the years, I refined my understanding of garment construction, materials and silhouettes through continuous research and experimentation. While I may not execute every design myself, my vision remains the foundation of Anaabu’s aesthetic – one that balances functionality, comfort and storytelling via garment design,” she explained.

Her liking for androgynous and oversized styles made its way into Anaabu’s designs. “I gravitate towards deconstructed, minimal statement pieces that create an effortless yet distinctive look. This personal aesthetic has naturally influenced the identity of the brand.”

MODERNISING HERITAGE WEAR

“Our customer base has evolved over the years. In the early days, Anaabu attracted a niche audience looking for gender-neutral, minimalist clothing. As the brand matured, we found a wider audience who resonated with our philosophy of slow fashion and storytelling. We’ve also expanded our range to include deeper cultural narratives,” Ana Abu shared.

Along the way, she had intentionally incorporated elements from traditional Malay heritage wear into the brand’s festive collections. “We see tradition not as a limitation, but a foundation to build upon,” she said.

These collections feature silhouettes inspired by baju kurung, kebaya, baju Melayu and other heritage pieces, reimagined in a way that feels relevant for modern times. Besides these special ranges, Anaabu also has a line of staples named Essence, which focuses on versatile, everyday wear that embodies the same quiet elegance and functionality.

She observed a growing appreciation for modernised traditional wear, particularly among the younger Malay generation. “While they may not gravitate towards conventional festive attire in its most classic form, they are more open to pieces that blend heritage with modern functionality. Anaabu gives them an alternative that aligns with their lifestyles – whether for festive occasions or everyday wear.”

“Fashion is a powerful reflection of cultural identity. Personally, I’ve come to appreciate this even more through my journey with Anaabu. Growing up, I didn’t always feel connected to traditional clothing, but over time, I found ways to reinterpret it in a manner that feels authentic to me. Through fashion, I’ve learnt that tradition is not about staying the same – it’s about evolving while preserving its essence,” she noted.

BUSINESS AND PERSONAL GROWTH

Through its online business, Anaabu’s reach has extended to many parts of the world. Besides Singapore, it’s also getting customers from countries including Japan, Australia and the United States.

The brand will also be making a return to Boutique Fairs Singapore, which takes place from Mar 21 to 23, after a successful first run at the popular shopping event that features indie fashion and lifestyle brands last year. While there are no plans to set up a boutique here as yet, Ana Abu is exploring other ways to boost its presence here via more pop-ups, collaborations or a dedicated stockist.

In the 15 years that have passed since starting Anaabu, she’s learnt many lessons, particularly the importance of adaptability, resilience and staying authentic. The experience has also changed certain preconceptions she’s had before.

“Running a brand is not just about creating beautiful pieces – it’s about understanding people, making strategic decisions and being open to growth. Most importantly, I’ve realised that success isn’t just measured by sales, but by the impact we create and the connections we build with our community,” she concluded.