Breakouts, dry and itchy skin – why does my skin look worse after a facial?

With more 86 million posts on TikTok and an often trending topic online, many women want to know why their skin looks worse after a facial.

After all, for many of us, that promised post-facial glow is why we get a facial. But sometimes, we find ourselves on the other end of the spectrum with our skin looking worse for wear – breakouts, skin roughness and flaking, instead of better.

“It’s not uncommon for your skin to look worse immediately after a facial,” said Dr Lee Hwee Chyen, medical director and consultant dermatologist, Epi Dermatology & Laser Specialist Clinic.

And it really depends on what facial you might have done, said Dr Tan Ying Zhou, medical director, Mizu Aesthetic Clinic. “Some facials, especially those for acne conditions, can be harsher. These facials require more intensive extractions or some form of heat treatment to help reduce acne and current inflammation. This will cause the skin to sometimes be redder, temporarily more sensitive or even result in some purging if the skin is clogged.”

TO EXTRACT OR NOT TO EXTRACT?

When it comes to extractions during facials, there are two camps – either you’re a fan or you’re not.

But is manual extraction even necessary?

Dr Lee shared that extractions aren’t all bad. “When performed by a skilled professional, facial extractions can effectively unclog pores and help prevent future breakouts by removing blackheads and whiteheads.”

Dr Tan even added that extractions can be necessary for some people. “This is especially so when the pores are clogged and stuck, that no amount of skincare products will be able to thoroughly remove such clogged pores. If they are not extracted, these clogged pores will continue to accumulate and cause the pores to either become bigger or lead to acne inflammation.”

However, when done incorrectly, extractions can do more harm than good. “Improper techniques or the use of harsh products may lead to skin abrasions, which in turn make one’s skin more prone to irritation, infections, breakouts or even scarring,” said Dr Lee.

Dr Tan agreed, and shared that as extractions can sometimes agitate the skin and stimulate skin renewal, resulting in purging breakouts.

COMMON SKIN WOES POST-FACIAL

According to Dr Lee, skin purging is a common, temporary reaction to the active ingredients or exfoliants commonly used in facials. “As these products speed up skin cell turnover, you might experience breakouts or irritation as old cells are rapidly shed, paving the way for clearer skin.”

Another skin woe is redness and dryness that can sometimes be accompanied by itching.

“Flushed skin, dryness and itchiness are usually due to some form of reaction to certain skincare products or ingredients. The skin can either be sensitive or allergic to such products, or these products are used at a concentration that is too high and therefore not suitable for that person’s skin,” explained Dr Tan.

Over-exfoliation can also result in skin being dry and uncomfortable. “Excessive exfoliation during a facial can strip your skin of its natural oils, leaving it dry, itchy and more vulnerable to irritation from other products,” said Dr Lee.

And for those with naturally occurring dry and sensitive skin, contact dermatitis (an itchy skin rash) can also be a post-facial problem, as using incorrect products and chemicals during facials can increase skin sensitivity as well, added Dr Lee.

KEEP YOUR AFTERCARE ROUTINE SIMPLE

“Gentle aftercare is key to post-facial skin irritation,” said Dr Lee.

This starts with using a gentle, soap-free cleanser to avoid further irritation, followed by a fragrance-free, non-comedogenic moisturiser that contains actives like hyaluronic acid, ceramides and niacinamide to protect the skin barrier and soothe any irritation.

Try: Takami Moisture Rich Face Foam Cleanser, S$50

Creating a cloud-like foam that is oh-so-gentle on the skin, this effectively lifts away impurities, dirt and oil, even those trapped in the pores, with minimal friction. Infused with amino acids, vitamin E and sodium PCA, it leaves skin soft – never taut, and clean.

Available at Sephora.sg. 

Ensure that your skin receives adequate hydration post-facial as it can help with healing, said Dr Tan.

Try: Q+A Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum, S$25.15

Infused with hyaluronic acid, biosaccharide gum and betaine, it hydrates and plumps the skin with intense moisturisation, while helping to balance moisture levels for a healthier and youthful looking complexion.

Available exclusively at www.guardian.com.sg.

And of course, don’t forget sun protection to shield your skin from further damage.

Try: Kose Sekkisei Skincare UV Essence Milk SPF50+/PA++++, S$37

Not only protects against harmful UV rays, but also soothes, hydrates and brightens the skin with the use of Japanese Job’s tears extracts. Plus, its lightweight milky texture is perfect for Singapore’s humidity.

Available at Kose counters.

You can also incorporate vitamin C skincare into your routine. With its brightening and antioxidant properties, it can help improve skin’s overall appearance as it recovers, added Dr Lee.

Try: Sigi Skin Daylight Oasis Vitamin C Serum, S$109

This medical-grade Vitamin C serum brightens complexion, fades spots, reduces the appearance of fine line and improves skin texture and elasticity.

Available at Sigi Skin.

If you do experience skin purging, do not pick at the breakouts. Instead, apply an antibiotic-based pimple cream – consider one that contains benzoyl peroxide, and keep skin moisturised, said Dr Tan. Avoid products that can further dry out the skin.

Try: Paula’s Choice Regular Strength Daily Skin Clearing Treatment 2.5% BP, S$36

A topical acne treatment enriched with 2.5 per cent benzoyl peroxide to address acne and reduce redness while preventing future breakouts at the same time.

Available at www.paulaschoice.sg.

Opt for light, non-comedogenic, oil-free moisturisers to protect and soothe the skin. “It’s important to avoid occlusive or oil-based makeup and skincare products that can exacerbate the breakout,” explained Dr Lee.

Try: Cetaphil Cica Calming Face Cream, S$39.50

This lightweight cream-lotion provides instant hydration while soothing skin irritation. And with Cica, allantoin and ceramides, it also helps restore the skin’s moisture barrier for a healthier complexion.

Available at Watsons, Guardian and official Cetaphil stores on Lazada.sg and Shopee.sg.

HOW TO PREVENT POST-FACIAL SKIN WOES 

Here’s what you can do:

• Choose a reputable, licensed facial therapist who understands your skincare needs.
• Communicate clearly. Let the therapist know your skin type, including any sensitivities or allergies, products you’re currently using – prescription topicals or medications like Accutane if any, and ongoing aesthetic or medical treatments.
• Check the labels and ingredients of the products used during the facial.
• Avoid facials that use harsh products, acids or scrubs if you have more sensitive skin.
• Post-treatment, flag out any irritations to the facial therapist so that potential issues can be identified.

Like skincare, not every facial is suitable for everyone, reminded Dr Tan.

The general rule of thumb is that less is more – keep to gentle products and avoid excessive exfoliation to help your skin recover properly, added Dr Lee.