Toxic chemicals in Shein and Temu clothes: What are they? Can washing help get rid of these?

Many would associate chemicals such as phthalates, formaldehyde and lead with construction and industrial uses. But here they are, turning up in clothes and accessories, according to South Korean authorities, that you have excitedly ordered from online giants such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress.

Of the 144 items from those Chinese platforms that were inspected, Seoul authorities said that multiple products failed to meet legal standards. For example, shoes and caps from Shein contained phthalates 229 times above the legal limit, and formaldehyde at double the allowed threshold.

Meanwhile, sandals from Temu were found to contain lead in the insoles at levels more than 11 times the permissible limit.

The findings may have made many online shoppers think twice about adding to their carts. But what about the many items you have bought online that are sitting in your wardrobe – or are already enroute to you?

Are there ways to detect these toxins? Can you get rid of the chemicals by washing the items before wearing? Should you even store them away from the rest of your uncontaminated belongings?

WHY ARE THESE CHEMICALS USED IN CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES?

“The presence of these chemicals in commercial products is due to diverse reasons,” said Professor Eric Chan from National University of Singapore’s (NUS) Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Science.

“Some of these chemicals, for example, phthalates and formaldehyde, are added intentionally to improve the quality of the products, while others such as lead are present in other ingredients or are by-products during manufacturing,” said Prof Chan.

Unfortunately, these substances also cause adverse health effects. For example, “formaldehyde may cause eye and nose irritation when exposed to low concentrations”, said Dr Jonathan Tang, a consultant from National University Hospital’s Emergency Medicine Department, while “lead can affect neurodevelopment in children”. 

To date, Dr Tang’s department has not encountered cases associated with contaminated fashion products, he said.

Here’s a closer look at why these chemicals are used in the first place and what they can do to you:

1. PHTHALATES

Uses: These colourless, odourless and oily liquids function as plasticisers, meaning they make plastic such as polyvinyl chloride soft and pliable before it is applied to fabrics to make them waterproof or stain resistant.

Phthalates are also used in the manufacturing of shoes, said Assistant Professor Seow Wei Jie from NUS Saw Swee Hock School of Public Health, to "enhance the softness and elasticity of the shoe materials, making them more comfortable to wear and better able to withstand wear and tear".

Health effects: “Phthalates are known endocrine disruptors, meaning they can interfere with the body's hormonal systems,” said Navin Kumar Verma, an associate professor of immunology and cell biology from Nanyang Technological University’s Lee Kong Chian School of Medicine.

“Certain phthalates such as di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate or DEHP have been classified as possible human carcinogens by the International Agency For Research On Cancer (IARC). Long-term exposure could potentially increase the risk of cancers, particularly in organs that are involved in hormone regulation,” he said.

Assoc Prof Verma added: “Pregnant women exposed to phthalates may face risks of birth defects and developmental issues in their offspring.” On skin, phthalates can lead to contact dermatitis or allergic reactions that can give rise to rashes, blisters or hives.

2. FORMALDEHYDE

Uses: This colourless gas is used to create wrinkle-resistant, durable and shrink-proof textiles. "In caps, formaldehyde is primarily used as part of the finishing process to make them durable, wrinkle-resistant, water-repellent, and maintain its shape and structure," said Asst Prof Seow.

Health effects: With prolonged or repeated exposure, said Assoc Prof Verma, formaldehyde is a skin and respiratory irritant that can cause “irritation of the nose, throat and lungs resulting in coughing, wheezing, sore throat and shortness of breath, particularly in individuals with pre-existing respiratory conditions such as asthma”.

As with phthalates, formaldehyde is also classified as a human carcinogen by the IARC. “Prolonged exposure to formaldehyde, particularly through inhalation, has been linked to an increased risk of certain cancers, including nasopharyngeal cancer and leukaemia,” he said. This is especially so for workers in industrial settings but “long-term exposure from consumer goods may also contribute” to the risk, he cautioned.

3. LEAD

Uses: This metal may be present as a contaminant in some raw materials or additives used in the production of insoles, said Asst Prof Seow. "For example, certain dyes, pigments or recycled materials might contain lead."

Health effects: According to Assoc Prof Verma, “lead interferes with brain development by disrupting synapse formation, neurotransmitter release and myelination”. Other than neurotoxicity, the metal can also cause cardiovascular issues, kidney damage, reproductive and developmental toxicity, gastrointestinal problems and anaemia.

Children are vulnerable and even low levels of lead can lead to significant neurodevelopmental delays, reduced IQ, learning disabilities and behavioural problems, he said. In adults, chronic exposure can result in cognitive decline, memory loss and difficulty with concentration.

ARE WE ABLE TO DETECT THESE TOXIC CHEMICALS?

“It may be challenging for consumers to detect these chemicals via smell or touch as we are not experts,” said Prof Chan.

However, Assoc Prof Verma said that “certain volatile toxic substances present in the clothes and accessories can be detected by the unique odour they produce”. For example, formaldehyde has “a distinct, pungent, pickle-like odour”, he said.

While that is true of formaldehyde, Asst Prof Seow said that the gas's presence in low concentrations might not be noticeable. "Laboratory testing or test kits are needed to test for the presence of chemicals."

Certain products may also be more associated with these chemicals. For instance, jelly shoes are typically made from PVC and lead, and are known to be the most toxic form of footwear, especially for children.

Other items to stay away from include clothes and accessories made with faux leather or materials that have a “noticeable texture or sheen”, said Assoc Prof Verma. “If a fabric feels unusually stiff, slick or rubbery, it may have been treated with potentially harmful chemicals.”

T-shirts that are printed with phthalate-containing partisol inks (you can tell as the print sits on top of the fabric, and cracks or peels over time) are best avoided as well.

But rather than relying on smell and touch, a better way is to check the labels for the specific chemicals used as well as regulatory certifications, said Asst Prof Seow.

Certifications to look for include Oeko-Tex Standard 100, Global Organic Textile Standard and BlueSign. These standards ensure that the product meets strict criteria regarding the absence of harmful chemicals, said Assoc Prof Verma. "Or consult online databases and resources that flag specific products or brands for containing toxic chemicals. Websites like Environmental Working Group and Campaign For Safe Cosmetics provide information on chemical safety in consumer goods," he said.

And you should most certainly stop wearing the item if you or your family members experience skin irritation, respiratory issues or other symptoms. “They could be related to the presence of toxic chemicals,” said Assoc Prof Verma.

WHAT ARE THE REGULATIONS ON THESE CHEMICALS?

The regulation of toxic chemicals in consumer products varies with country and product type, said Assoc Prof Verma. Singapore’s regulations largely take their cues from these international standards.

Take phthalates, for example. "The European Union's (EU) Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation And Restriction Of Chemicals dictates that these four phthalates – the aforementioned DEHP, dibutyl phthalate (DBP), diisobutyl phthalate (DIBP) and benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP) – are restricted to a concentration equal to or below 0.1 per cent (1,000ppm) by weight individually or in any combination in any plasticised material in articles used by consumers," said Asst Prof Seow.

“For consumer goods like clothing and shoes, Enterprise Singapore follows international standards and combined concentration of phthalates should not exceed 0.1 per cent or 1,000ppm by weight of the plasticised material,” said Assoc Prof Verma.

Formaldehyde gets an even tighter leash as it is classified as “a probable human carcinogen” by the EU. For example, textiles that come into direct contact with skin should contain no more than 75ppm of formaldehyde. “The limit is stricter for products intended for babies and children under three years old, typically 20ppm or lower,” said Assoc Prof Verma.

“For other consumer goods, including accessories, the lead content should not exceed 100mg/kg, unless specified otherwise by the relevant authority. The allowable limit for lead in surface coatings, such as paint used on toys and children's products, is 90mg/kg (0.009 per cent by weight)," said Assoc Prof Verma.

CAN WASHING GET RID OF THE CHEMICALS?

The multiple washing and airing of your online purchases may help reduce the levels of some of these chemicals in the products, said Prof Chan. Assoc Prof Verma also agreed that those are good moves. “Hanging them outside or in a well-ventilated area can help reduce the concentration of volatile chemicals like formaldehyde,” he added.

And you don’t need special laundry detergent either. Your regular, gentle, eco-friendly detergent, and perhaps the addition of baking soda or white vinegar, can help neutralise or break down the odours and chemical residues, said Assoc Prof Verma. “Repeated washing and drying in sunlight for a few hours can degrade certain chemicals over time to make the cloth nearly free from toxic chemicals.”

But "the complete elimination might not always be possible", said Assoc Prof Verma. 

Asst Prof Seow also has her reservations. "Washing's effectiveness depends on the chemicals' concentrations and how they are bonded to the fabric."

For example, if the chemicals are present on the surface or are in low concentrations, they may be easier to wash off. "Therefore, it is best to avoid buying contaminated items," she said.

DO WE HAVE TO WASH NEW CLOTHES SEPARATELY TO AVOID CROSS-CONTAMINATING THE REST OF THE FAMILY’S CLOTHES?

It is best that you do, especially for the first few washes, advised Assoc Prof Verma, as the chemicals can indeed transfer to other garments. “While the amount of chemicals transferred may be small, repeated exposure can still pose health risks, especially for individuals with sensitive skin, allergies or respiratory conditions,” he said. “Children and infants are particularly vulnerable.”

If you still suspect residual chemicals after washing, dry the new clothes separately as well, advised Assoc Prof Verma. If you use a dryer, the heat can cause remaining volatile chemicals to be released into the air, which could affect other items. “After the initial washes, if no issues are observed, the items can typically be laundered with the rest of the family's clothes,” he said.

WHAT ABOUT STORAGE? DO WE HAVE TO KEEP NEW CLOTHES SEPARATELY AS WELL?

Again, it’s best that you store your newly purchased items separately. Keeping them together with your other clothes can potentially cross-contaminate them, said Assoc Prof Verma.

The process is known as off-gassing, where toxic gases are slowly released into the air from the material, said Asst Prof Seow. "Chemicals such as formaldehyde can off-gas from new textiles and footwear. Keeping the wardrobe or shoe cupboard well-ventilated helps to reduce the risk of contamination."

The amount of chemicals transferred is generally much lower than the source item, said Assoc Prof Verma. However, even low levels of exposure can be a concern over time, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or respiratory conditions, he cautioned. Furthermore, given the heat and humidity in Singapore, the release of formaldehyde and phthalate vapours may be quickened, he said.

Your best move? “Items that are sealed in garment bags or stored separately are less likely to be affected,” he said.