On the taste trail: Karu’s fish head curry at Upper Bukit Timah is worth the Rail Corridor trek

Whether you’re just getting started or a seasoned weekend warrior, exploring Singapore’s vast network of walking trails means knowing a delicious meal is never too far away. In our latest Makan Kakis series, we’ll share good trails and even better eats, so let’s tie on our trainers and let our stomachs lead the way!

For this week’s first walking trail, we took on the Rail Corridor. Our destination? Karu's Indian Banana Leaf Restaurant for a traditional banana leaf meal.

Named for its original designation in Singapore’s transportation history, the Rail Corridor was formerly part of the Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM) railway line between Singapore and Malaysia. Stretching from Woodlands in the north to Tanjong Pagar in the south, this 24-kilometre trans-island artery is verdant, well-maintained and good for families on foot or on bicycles.

We tackled just a short section of the Rail Corridor that straddles the central and northern sections, from the historical Upper Bukit Timah Truss Bridge (via the Rail Mall access point) to a little beyond Hazel Park Open Space (via the access point opposite Hazel Park Terrace). This serene stretch of the Rail Corridor has an even, paved surface and continues across largely flat terrain. At just over 2km long, this trail will take approximately 30 minutes to complete at a leisurely pace.

The beauty of the Rail Corridor is its accessibility, with at least 43 exit and entry points, so you can choose where to start, depending on your fitness level and time to spare. The end, however, is non-negotiable because our goal is a meal at an Upper Bukit Timah institution.

Housed in a sleepy row of nondescript shophouses, Karu's Indian Banana Leaf Restaurant is worth the 3,000 steps I took to get there by foot.

Since opening its doors in 1993, the family-run eatery has built a reputation for their boldly spiced menu, 90 per cent of which is South Indian, with a few Northern options like naan and tandoori to meet customer demand.

Co-owner Supramaniyam K Nallappan, 60, has always been interested in cooking and opened Karu’s with his two brothers who are chefs. They learnt to make the restaurant’s signature fish head curry from their late “master” Periyasamy.

“You know, right? Fish head curry was invented in Singapore,” said Supramaniyam, claiming that Periysasamy was one of the pioneer cooks who started popularising the dish after Indian hawker MJ Gomez first combined his culinary style with his Chinese customers’ love for fish head in 1949. 

Supramaniyam can also testify that. “Sixty to 70 per cent of my customers are Chinese,” he laughed, grateful for loyal customers who have been returning for the last three decades.

And the secret to Karu’s success? In a word, quality. They pay attention to details that matter, insisting that coconut milk is not store-bought but squeezed fresh daily. Also, while many restaurants rely on pre-made spice mixes, Karu’s are sourced directly from India.

“I have a spice mill in Chennai, partnered with a friend, so whatever we want we grind ourselves and bring back to Singapore,” Supramaniyam explained. “We concentrate on quality in terms of flavour and the masala (mixture of spices).”

Indeed, for Karu’s Fish Head Curry (S$27.50 for a small portion), their signature masala is what sets it apart. Served piping hot in a claypot, a hefty, whole red snapper head was bathed in a deep, complex curry thick with herbs, spices and whole cloves of garlic. Lavish and full of body, the gravy infused the fish head with a balance of heat, acidity, brine and a subtle sweetness. Enhancing those flavours were generous chunks of tomato, brinjal, ladies finger and the garnish of coriander.

The meaty red snapper head, chosen for its mild taste and firm texture, was the perfect blank slate of flaky flesh, tender cheeks and gelatinous bits for soaking up the fragrant curry.

But there was plenty more for mixing into white rice and just that combination alone tasted divine. For S$4, the banana leaf set comes with free-flow servings of rice, two different veggie sides and papadum. You can also switch out the plain white rice for the more aromatic and decadent biryani, made from basmati rice, cashews, cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, coriander leaves and lashings of ghee (S$4.40 per set)

No banana leaf meal is complete without unlimited servings of sides and at Karu’s, cabbage cooked down with dhal, onion, mustard seeds and a little bit of tomato is a light but flavourful everyday staple. The second side changes daily and I was served snake gourd prepared with tomato, onion and more spices, including chilli powder that gave the dish its deeper orange hue. It was my first time trying snake gourd and it was delicious. Not unlike cucumber, it was cooked till tender and had a pleasant whisper of bitterness.

Papadum provided much-needed contrast to all the soft textures caressing my palate – shatteringly crisp yet sturdy enough for scooping up curry, the lentil-based crackers provided the perfect crunch.

Want to take things up a notch? Order another dish or two to share. Karu’s menu includes many other South Indian classics like prawn curry and mutton Mysore, but I chose their popular chicken masala (S$7.50 for a whole leg). It proved to be a masterclass in spice, with succulent meat slow cooked in a masala that tasted completely different from the fish head curry. Smothered in a rich, deep-red paste, the chicken had a more mellow flavour. It was a little fruity, tangy and sweet thanks to a blend of roasted spices, tomatoes and caramelised onions.

Dining at Karu’s is as much about the experience as it is about the food. Bonus points if you eat with your hands! There’s something about partaking in a meal served the time-honoured way on banana leaves, which aren’t just there for aesthetic or minimal clean-up purposes. I’m convinced the leaves release a subtle woody aroma, adding an extra layer of depth to every bite. According to Supramaniyam, they go through at least 300 banana leaves per day from Friday to Sunday, when hungry weekend crowds are at their peak. 

With bold flavours, good variety and reasonable prices, it’s no wonder tables fill up fast despite its remote location and limited parking options. To address the latter issue, they’ve even opened a halal branch in Bukit Batok West Avenue 7, where parking is ample at Home Team NS.

I’d still recommend their first and original location though, as Cashew MRT station is a convenient 10 minutes away. But why not get your steps in and take the scenic route for a well-earned post-walk feast? Do leave plenty of time to arrive before sunset, because the Rail Corridor is not lit at night to support nocturnal wildlife. To say Singaporeans love to eat is an understatement and to say Singaporeans love to exercise might be an overstatement, but the journey to Karu’s shows the best of both worlds is possible.

Karu's Indian Banana Leaf Restaurant is located at 808/810 Upper Bukit Timah Road, Singapore 678144. It’s open from 10.30am to 10pm and is closed on Mondays.

Catch Makan Kakis with Denise Tan every Thursday from 11am on MediaCorp GOLD 905.